RAMON'S BLOG

Mixed Emotions

2012-01-23T22:16:00.001Z

This week I was called the "epitome of dedication". I think they might be right. Kris and I have been training for a specific goal this winter, our first proper M11. I've climbed M11 just last week, but that was drytooling in North Wales, it doesn't really count as proper mixed climbing. So Kris suggested the benchmark route for the grade, Mission Impossible, a classic testpiece put up by Bubu Bole and famously repeated by Stevie Haston wearing only underpants. To add to the spice, it's protected only by old pegs.

Mission Impossible cave

The Mission Impossible curtain of ice was too thin to climb

So we made our trek to Valsavarenche, in the Italian Alps, Kris from his native Denmark and I from London. After and epic journey of missing connecting flights, closed car-rental offices and a missing photographer due to frostbite, we finally made it to our base in Aosta. The morning after we raced to our project deep in the Gran Paradiso valley, only to find it very lean in ice conditions. We walked right underneath it and what we feared most was confirmed, the route was not climbable. Disappointment took over. But life's is too short to be sorry for yourself, so we made the walk across the valley to the world-famous Haston Cave's, just to find really uninspiring. So the comp boots stayed warm in our packs and decided to go and scope out the multi-pitch mixed test pieces in Cogne. What we had in mind was X-files M10, Empire Strikes back M9 and Jedi Master M10+.

In the Lillaz Valley things looked a lot more frozen than in Valsaverenche, and as soon as we approach Lillaz village I could see a beautiful line of ice dripping down two free-hanging pillars over a roof. God, I wet my pants. We walked over and yes indeed it was X-files and it was looking gorgeous. Not to jump the gun, we kept walking to check Empire and Jedi, which also looked good. The only one concern we had was that the rock look atrocious and it was protected by pegs and trad gear, a really bad combination. Kris, being a geologist, pointed out that the roofs were the routes are, existed because of a crushed vein of eroded rock, hence the drainage of the water (i.e. ice) and it would be very loose rock. Me being the born optimist, I said we should go up and have a go at it anyways. But not that day as it was getting late. So we run up a two pitch Wi4+ called Cold Couloir, which was a sweet intro to swinging axes for first time this season.

Empire Strike back wall in Valnontey, Cogne

Figuring out where Jedi Master and Empire lines go.... choss fest all around

Next day, bright and early we headed up to X-files, armed with cams, pegs and high hopes. I led the first pitch which turn out to be a lot tastier than I expected. Once the belay set up under the threatening daggers, I started to have a look around for the mixed lines up the roof. Things weren't looking good. Rotten gear on rotten rock, ummmm. I brought Kris up to the belay to see if his geology knowledge would inspire me more confidence. The look on his face at the sight above was not reassuring. We decided to try I line furthest to the right were we could see some bolts, we imagined that it was a route called "Twin Towers" and given M9. So I put on my comp boot and went a have a look. Everything I was pulling on was loose or detached in some sort of way. I got up the first bolt and when I was torquing behind a detached flake and saw I had to launch for a broken wedged block and the stein-pull and yet-another loose flake. I thought sod this, it's not worth it, and for me to say this… So we bailed of what's the biggest pile of choss south of Brigthon.

Kris following the first pitch of X-files

Me leading the first pitch of X-files

The thing with this routes is that you don't even know if they have been repeated. When Haston put them up, there was a few repeats straight after by Scott Muir I think. But that was yonks ago, and god knows what happen to the gear or what holds have come off. This mixed-climbing game is so obscure that finding the right current beta is like gold-dust.

Anyways, we left with the tails between our legs and decided to do the hardest ice route in the area instead, Repentance Super, Wi6. I knew it had been done this season and that the top pillar was formed so it was 200mts and 5 pitches long. We went and did a recce walk in that same day so we would know exactly where we going the morning after. I'm glad we did because we got the wrong way 3 times, and that was in bright daylight, imagine at 6am in the dark!

So alarms set at 5.30am, breakfast had in the car driving up the valley and a smooth walk-in (except my screaming legs!) We were the first team up in the route, and then the whole thing turned into a sunday market. But we ignored the people who decided to put the safety in the line of falling ice of a badly formed Wi6. We dispatched the route with no problems and it was a true joy to top out in the Money Plateau with the sun beaming in your face. I was enjoying myself so much that whilst on lead on the top pillar I took the camera out and took a few snaps of myself. We had a great day and I was happy, worth all the hassle and pennies.

Kris following on the second pitch of Repentance Wi6

Kris setting off on his lead of the third pitch of Repentance

Leading the top pillar of Repentance

The summit plateau

What happens to you if you climb with wet gloves

Repentance Super Wi6 200mts

A beauty of ice

Exposure on the top pillar of Repentance

But! We still have 5 days to go, and no M11's around. So what do we do? Change clothes, get the espresso maker going in the car park and start driving to the Dolomites in search of some hard mixed climbing. I only managed to do about 4hrs drive, and I thought it was good going after having woken up at 5.30am, climbed 200mts of Wi6 and walk in and out for about 2hrs, all in the same day! We found a roadside hotel in Verona and call it a day.

Fiat Panda, mean machine

Our destination was an obscure little mixed crag in Dobbiaco, South Tyrol, Italy. Apparently it packed a few quality routes put up by local legend Kurt Astner, and telling by the photo-topo, it did look promising indeed. We drove from Verona into the Dolomites and I had a jolly old time as I remember my weekends spend in this mountains 10 years ago when I lived here. The irony is that I was still driving Fiat Panda now like in the old days, haven't I moved on in my career to afford something better? Apparently not. So we took the turn off and drove down the Val de Landro and there she was, a beautiful cave with ice daggers and curtains hanging all over it, bingo! We walked up it and readily got geared up and run up and M9 called "Silent Memories". Feeling tired from the drive and "Repentance", we called it a active rest day and drove back to Dobbiaco to find the youth hostel.

The Dobbiaco cave, Dolomites little mixed secret

The grandest youth hostel in Europe

We were using as a reference an article written by Scott Muir, who paid a visit to the crag in 2005 to try and repeat the hard lines. In that article he rated "Fly in the wind" M10+, "Mix Isch Fix, another M10+, and "La via e bella" M11. But rather than grades, we choose the line that was most inspiring to start getting psyched, and that was "Fly in the wind". Starts on a ice pillar, up some ice slabs and then straight for a horizontal roof to join the hanging curtain, pure awesomeness. So I went up first, working out the moves all the way to the top. Then Kris had a go, also working the moves. On my next go I thought I might as well give it everything, so after a lot of embarrassing power-screaming I managed to swing on the ice-curtain and bagged the route. Kris took another couple of attempts but also successfully topped out.

Me topping out on Fly in the wind M10+

The goal for this trip was to climb our proper first M11 after all, so we decided that next we ought to have a go at "La via e bella". We studied the topo and we couldn't tell where exactly the route went. I went up to have a look and I couldn't figure out exactly what line of bolts it was, but one thing was for sure that whatever option it was, it didn't touch ice. We didn't come here for drytooling! It made us think that the more hard mixed climbing we do, the more apparent is that above certain grade, there's no ice involved, as ice is considered the "rest". So therefore can't be any harder than certain grade, and that seems to be around M10+.

Having seen local legend Kurt Astner the previous day cruising up "Mix isch fix", we decided that was the best looking line left to do. Scott Muir also said in his article that it was a "hard" M10+ since some holds broke since the first ascents. Once I started working the route, it became apparent that it was a total sandbag and nails for an M10+. Nonetheless I was really psyched for the line and so I started putting the hard work into figuring out the moves. The route starts on rock, then on to icy cracks and then onto a free-hanging ice dagger, where you can rest. From here is all systems go, but a lot of the holds are ice-up cracks, but on a horizontal roof and figure-of-4 fest all the way. Over two days I had 5 attempts, the most I've spend on a mixed or drytooling routes recently, it definitely felt harder than M10+. Even if feeling a bit deflated that I wasn't gonna be able to claim the M11 grade, I still gave it all and sent the route.

With this ascent I realised that sport mixed climbing is such an obscure discipline that there's no enough people repeating the routes to arrive to a consensus on grades. So despite coming home without the trophy, it's been a great trip fully packed with challenge and adventure.

Kris on Silent Memories M9

Me on Mix Isch Fix M10+

Riding the icicle on Silent Memories M9

Kris getting established in the icicle of Silent Memories M9

Great sunrises

The Dollies

Getting psyched against the cold is the crux of mixed climbing

Having fun mixing it up!

Kris riding the last curtain of ice

What a poser!

I love getting on hanging curtains, specially if they are wet and fragile like this one!

White Goods Topo Update

2012-01-15T19:29:00.000Z

Last few weekends in North Wales doing our little dirty drytooling climbing business has spurred me to update the topos. Seems to have been a lot of action and attention to the crag recently, and just wanted to update the new developments so newcomers know what they looking at. The nation is getting strong at White Gooooods!

Stump Man, M11

2012-01-08T22:42:00.000Z

Things seems to start coming together. I had a very good weekend up at the White Goods with the company of youth Will Hardy. Saturday I felt a bit tired of my recent pull-up onslaughts, but after warming up a few laps on Jaz went over to have a go at "Stump man" M11, recently climbed by Tim Emmett. I had one previous go with Tim when I go about half way. Surprised I was went I tied in and sent the route first go, putting the draws in. It was a desperate battle, but I got the trophy at the end. The route is absolute mint, and it's loads of fun to climb it, specially the three rest, which is a bit of red-herring as to get out is really tricky and scary. Will also got his lead of Jaz so we were a happy team and went for the usual winner Bangladeshi curry in Ruthin (they are still laughing at Tim eating the strongest green chillies raw in front of them).

Sunday was almost even better as I felt totally on fire. One of those days were you feel totally tuned up. Did a few laps on Left Wall M6 to start with as I've never done it, and also some cleaning of some really big blocks on the route. Then went over to the cave and had a go at Finnish Start M10 and fell at the crux when the crucial hold broke. Figured out a new sequence and sent it next time, feeling totally fine. Then lower-off to strip it but then did it again straight away on top-rope. The had a few laps on lead on White Goods M8+ and another ascent of Left over Goods M9, and still had something left in the tank. So not bad for a weekend

M6 x 2

M8 x 3

M8+ x 3

M10 x 3 (1TR)

M11

Next week Mission Impossible!!!!

Thanks for checking in guys!

What a year!

2012-01-01T23:48:00.000Z

Do I feel bad for going to bed on new years eve at 00.30h? Hell no! Specially after having had a great day climbing in Montgrony with great new friends. And after all this years being hammered with the idea that we have to do something special on those dates, it certainly has the opposite effect to me. Call me rebel if you wish, haha. My recent change in life, being a full time Design Director at Construct London, has left me with a deep appreciation of a good nights sleep. So being back home, being looked after by mum, and having none of the London stress, makes me sleep like a baby. There's also a factor of nostalgia here, memories of waking up in the same bed at a million o'clock because you had been doing naughty stuff the night before sprung up this morning.

I started digging up old memorabilia that my mum kept in my old room. Some great relics came out, what a laugh. Most of the stuff is over 10 years old, and it makes you think how quickly life goes by. I looked at this pics and I was in my 20's, and now I'm a grown up, but I still feel I'm in my 20's, but there's nothing stopping the clock. It makes you think whether the life you living is fully packed with the stuff you wanna do, whether you achieving your dreams, and most importantly, whether you are happy.

Looking back at my 2011 is certainly interesting. I am fully content where I am now, and things are looking really exciting for the future. I think that's an achievement on itself considering the ups and downs I had this year. Most of you that know me, would know that I am not one for hanging about and wasting my time. 2011 was fully packed with great adventures and kept my trajectory of chasing my dreams... and so will 2012 be carried forward! Here is the list for the good and the bad of this year

The Good
Ranking 27th Ice World Cup in Saas Fee

Climbing M10+

Flashing M10

Winning London Tooling Series
Climbing my first 8a
Climbing 10 7c's and 7c+'s
Flashing for first time 7c+

Becoming a Design Director

Climbing a bunch of hard ice & mixed routes

The Bad

Loosing Gerry Sheehy

Getting separated from my wife

So as you can see there's more good than bad, a positive outcome. I'd like to share some pictures that have nothing to do with climbing, but they are a trip down Memory Lane, and for those who know me, would find them kinda funny. I'm greatly thankful to all the people that make my life so special, so thank you guys!

10 years ago...

Greg Basdevant, aka "Freestyler", left this pic on my work desk after a good party. Greg is one of the best people France ever produce.

Good times. Manu, ex-pro climber and first spanish teenage to climb 8a. The Martin and Thomas were my party fiends in Italy

A friends impression of me and my passion for climbing

My beloved Panda, many adventures on board of that car

Looking lost in a party. That was a good night, although it got me into trouble...

Climbing road trip from Venice to Barcelona

Ries the man. He was loads of fun in the mountains

Dolomites are awesome for snowboarding

Old skool...

That night we slept in a cave in the Dolomites

Heading for another adventure in Dolomites

Climb, Ski & Christmas Sun

2011-12-30T17:51:00.003Z

This year my christmas break was way shorter, that's what full-time employment does for you. I tried to make some plans, but it was obviously pushing it too hard and at the end I decided that for once, not have a plan. As it turned out, I had too many plans once I got here to Spain. I managed to hook up with friends of friends who are pretty keen climbers and got up to Montgrony, which a crag about 1hrs drive from my hometown and is blessed with some amazing tufas. The thing with this crag is that despite it proximity to the Pyrenees and its altitude, 1500mts, it's great for winter sport climbing. We were climbing without tshirts all day and were sweating like in summer time. What a contrast from London a few days ago! I did a couple of 6b's, a 6c+, a 7b+ which I was well pleased with considering I broke a pulley tendon about only a month ago, mind you, with 8 Ibuprofens and lot of finger tape. The 8a+ I tried proved too much and called it a day. I'm going back for some more tomorrow.

Is there a better looking 8a+? "Aromes de Montgrony", the jewel of the crown

Low winter sun at the end of a great day with new friends. I love climbing...

The amazing view from Montgrony, it makes you love the life you live, I tell ya ;)...

Popi ride, a modified cheapo Berlingo, does the job

The good stuff, this is THE life

Some climber enjoying summer conditions at 1500mts altitude in xmas. It was way too hot, Popi got sunstroke

Popi on "Espantaocells" and awesome 6c+ which I did as well

Popi working "Pacte Satanic" 8a+. I tried the first moves, bloody desperate in my current shape

And this is a photo-dump of a day's skiing with my bro to Grandvalira, it's the yearly ritual we do to remember the good old days of both of us being ski instructor. We use to be badass on skis, now we average-ass, that's life. But that doesn't mean we don't go hard, 5hrs non-stop of charging down the slopes, 3 days later my legs and back are still hurting! They say that skiing is like riding a bike, you never forget it, and it's so true.

Muppet face

A very lean looking Pas de la Casa. With pow, this place is rad, check out the free terrain

Back in the days we'd be lifting those fences and charging down...

Marin Bros.

You see the ridge to the peak? The lift leaves you on the little shoulder on the left and you hike up the ridge, and pick you line to bomb down

Mega-fooking-sunny, welcome to Spain (well, Andorra)

Here is the slope that taught me a lesson: to go real hard you have to be practised, otherwise you break collar-bones. Thanks bro for remind me

Thanks for checking in folks

Minus20 Magazine

2011-12-26T18:42:00.002Z

About three years ago I received an email from Andy Kirkpatrick that he wanted to start this amazing magazine concept. I worked on the design concepts for him, specially the cover and style, for free obviously. Then I never heard anything back, so a while has passed now and I thought I'd share my work before it becomes wasteland in my hard drive. I hope you like it!

The "Goods" bootcamp

2011-12-20T18:59:00.006Z

Winter has finally arrived, time to dust off the ice axes. I have to admit I've been putting it off as much as I could, the summer has been way too good to let it go that easy. The decision to start training for my winter climbing projects was made for me when I snapped the A4 pulley tendon when crimping too hard on a boulder problem. Luckily a ring tendon is not that important for hanging on axes. So instead of being miserable of the nasty injury, I thought this was the message I needed to start specific training for winter. What's so wonderful about being a polyvalent climber is that you can change discipline when you need to, maximising your options and always being able to get out on the hills.

So my training had officially started, and with a vengeance, despite the delay. I had one session on the chalk down in the Saltdean cliffs, which went pretty well, focusing on stamina, but I always get blisters on my first session there, and this was no exception. Swiss Cottage climbing wall has equipped a few drytooling routes, so we have now finally a training facility in London where we can get strong, a few visits have been paid to this venue so far.

Some poor birthday boy lost his balloon. Nothing to do with climbing, but you have to entertain yourself when you are training alone on the Saltdean chalk cliffs

Hard landing bouldering. Normally is a pebble beach, not bad landing if your fig4 rips

The 4x4 cave, great for fig4 your way across and back... and repeat... and repeat...and...

But the real action has been happening in North Wales, at the best drytooling venue south of Scotland, White Goods. My partner in crime has come in the shape of Tim Emmett, who is looking at getting strong for his lastest installment of the "Spray On" project in the Hemleck Falls, BC Canada. In my case I'm training specifically for my first project of this winter, which is "Mission Impossible" a classic benchmark M11 in Haston's Cave in Valsavaranche, Italy. I've never climbed that grade, and despite not being "hard" by today's standard, is still a great challenge for a part-time punter like me. Tim had never been to White Goods before, it took me a bit of convincing that this crag is where it's at, in terms of getting strong in the UK. Finally we found a weekend we could both make the trek to North Wales and the game was on!

The beautiful valley of Pwnglass, home to the White Goods crag

Tim enjoying the triple espressos and the blasting tunes

Tim totally loved The Goods, he was like a kid in a candy store. He flashed or onsight every single route he would touch. "Mental Block" M9+ offered a bit more resistance to him, it took him two attempts, but after all 9 routes of grade M8 and above, we were tired. I was very chuffed to flash "Mental Block" on the first day. In fairness, I've seen Dave Garry working the route once before, so I sort of new where the hooks where. it's a route I always wanted to do, but always saved it for a good day, and this day was certainly it. This trip I was feeling strong from my summer sport climbing, despite being my first real outing on the axes this season, so to get a flash of an M9+ was very much a good sign. I was even more pleased about my "have it" mentality, snatching the flash ascent almost in the dark and after having gone hard all day. I think Tim's approach to climbing had a great effect on me. We scoped out the harder lines and noticed that Rob Gibson's "Lip project" was now fully bolted. After a few text messages, it transpired that no one really knows if it's an open project or who's the secret bolter. So we vowed to return and give it a go.

The mandatory morning bonfire

A few days later we were driving again in the dense Welsh rain. Are we going climbing, really? Yes, drytooling will sort you out in the grimmest days. My day started with hardly any sleep, London's busy-career life has its pitfalls after all. Tim's Audi decided to stop working right in the middle of the M6, the accelerator just wouldn't work! So we pulled on the hard-shoulder and try to figure out what was going. It seemed that the electronic system was cutting off the fuel supply. After a few tries we were back on the road, but certainly apprehensive now that the weekend would be interesting...

We got to the crag and the triple espressos started flowing from the two caffetieres on the go. Tim sorted the gettho blaster churning up some sick tunes... and the psyche was up! After a couple of mandatory warm up laps on the M8 "Jaz", Tim jumped straight on "The Finnish start", an M10 put up by Rob with a fierce reputation. Tim had a good go at it before passing on the baton to me. I took all his beta and climbed fairly smoothly up to the crux. That route packs in some awesome moves, specially the inverted crack layback with a full-span reach to a tool cam in a parallel crack... So good! Then pulled a few fig-of-4 tricks out of the bag and i was through the hard bit. I dispatched the top bit with composure, and felt great to flash such a cool and stiff route. Tim got it next go with ease, making it look like piss, it goes to show how difficult to onsight mixed climbs is. Which takes me to the next point...

Tim doing work emails between crags

I took a look around what other routes there were left to do. "Ready steady hook" M11 is in dubious state as the bolts haven't been checked since the big fire that happened underneath. "Left over goods" M9+ was the only route left for me to do at this part of the crag. So i decided to go for the onsight, I thought it would be a good fair game. Some panting, screaming and what seemed like bleeding forearms, I got to the anchors... Just!

Myself onsighting "Left over goods" M9+

So we called it a day, or we thought so. The Audi decided to have a bit of giggle with us. A few hours of playing with the electronic system again, we gave up and call roadside recovery. The only option was to be taken back to Bristol. As we get dropped off in Wrexam to swap trucks, the Audi decides to incomprehensively work again. So what do we do? Abandon roadside recovery, drive back to Ruthin, order the usual winner curry take away, and go for a pint! The bizarre night was topped up by the fact that the only pub open nearby whilst we waited for our curry was a totally empty Conservative party members-only club. Do these things exist really? Well, we found one! After convincing the gorgeous bar tender to serves us a pint (the owner was Labour apparently), we collected our delicious curry and head back to camp, not before stopping at the White Horse pub for a few games of pool. Life with Tim is certainly entertaining...

Tim with his Salomon comp boots prototypes for the world cup in 2002.

Morning by the bonfire, more warm-up laps on "Jaz", and more triple espressos. We turned our attention to the main event, the "Lip Project", at the Power Pact cave. Now, this route looks quite intimidating, bolted at the edge of the hanging lip that traverses left pretty much the whole length of the face. Tim, being the psyche-machine he is, was mad to jump on it straight away. Finding the invisible hooks was the trickiest part, and Tim made very good progress for an onsight attempt until he came off. He got back on the route and worked all the moves, the best being the bridge across to the tree, which looks totally insane! But the fight is not over, you still have to climb the headwall to the anchors high up. Tim figured all the moves out and it was now my attempt. I was totally fired up, and as Tim would say, I pressed the "up-for-it button". But as soon as I got upside-down on the main affair of the roof I just run-out of steam. I need to be fresher to tackle a route of this calibre. It was Tim's chance now to dispatch the route, and with the quickdraws in place ow it should be a lot easier. He looked very steady across the roof and I thought it was in the bag, but just a couple of moves from the tree rest he dropped his tool. Game over then! He was gutted, but he'll send it next time. We reckon it might go around M10+. But the route is such a cool creation that left us totally mad for some more. Unfortunately I won't be able to get back on it until the new year. I reckon Tim will send it way before that.

I love this game of fools!

Good skills of make-shift stick-clip for the Lip Project

A fig-of-9 well executed by super-pro climber Tim Emmett

The first hook on the face is the hardest to find as you can't see it from below

The next hook is very marginal and I think it's probably the first crux

The coolest rest on a route, but beware, the tree is dead, so don't rest for too long...

Me flailing desperately on the Lip Project. I've got a heel hook on the head of my tool in this picture

Westway Fig4 drytooling competition

2011-12-18T14:45:00.003Z

Thumbs up to the westway crew for organizig a wicked Fig4 competition on the outside wall. Liam Halsy and Neil Gresham did a great job setting the routes . No one had really used the tools before, so it's wonder i came up first. But Buster and Adrian Baxter were really good rivals, and we had such a good laugh. Looking forward to the next comp!

The Goods Delivery

2011-12-08T22:39:00.001Z

I know it's been a while since my last blog. Loads of things have happen, but mainly one, a very busy new job. I'm loving taking my design skills to the next chapter in my life, it's my new 8a project, and certainly as stressful. So that hasn't left me with much to blog, but just barely scrapped enough time to keep climbing going.

One of the stupid things I did was to break a pulley tendon during a bouldering session at the wall. I didn't warm up properly and start crimping hard, and pop! it was gone. That was a message I had to start training on my tools. So my training has officially started, and with a vengeance, despite the delay. So I had one session down in chalk, which went pretty well, but I always get blisters on my first session there and this was no exception. Then we have really lucky that swiss cottage climbing wall has equipped a few drytooling routes, so we have now finally a training facility in London where we can get strong!

Last weekend I finally managed to get Tim Emmett up to White Goods for his first taste of the place. The chap totally loved it, he was like a kid in a candy store. He flashed or onsight every route he would touch, with the exception of Mental Block. But mind you, after 8 or 9 routes, you would be be knackered as he was. The example was that on saturday I flashed that same route almost in the dark, and I didn't find it that hard, and then on sunday, on a top-rope, I found it absolutely desperate. Tim loved the place, and he is gonna used as his training ground for his "Spray on" project, quite a honour for our dirty little crag.

Right chaps, I'm switching off, gotta wake up at 5am to catch a plane to Prague

I got to to go to this amazing castle in Tuscany where the Medici family where born and raise.

This is where the groundsman live, I thought it was really cool

Ramon on business mode. I don't many of you have seen me in this mode. Anyways, that's my "other" life

Tim's abode and ride. He lives in luxury this chap

We got freshly grounded coffee from...Llagollen. The unlikeliest place to get it, but it kept us going for two days and we totally crush! Tim is a coffee fiend like myslef

Tim onsighting Power Pact, a top effort considering all its nooks and crannies, specially finding the hooks past the roof. He just locked off his arm, and extended the other in search of a good pocket.

Totally psyched for a Ruthin curry. I gotta say it was absolutely delicious, best food I had in North Wales

Tim showing off his gun power on Jaz

Walking up Jaz for breakfast

Tim on Mental Block M9+, the only route he didn't flash or onsight. I was very pleased to the flash the day before

Sunny November at Brean

2011-11-14T10:50:00.002Z

I should really be hanging on my nomics by now, if I want my winter projects to happen. But I feel very reluctant to stop getting out on rock, specially when I'm going well and the weather is so warm and nice. I'm sort of waiting for the weather to crap out, but it's not quite happening. At least I dusted off the axes last week and started doing some pull-up training. Now I'm on my way to brighton for my first chalk session this year. It's funny, by this time last few years I already had full "season" of chalk in my bag.

But last weekend made it very clear I'm doing the right thing. Being at Brean Down, feeling good and with amazing weather was just plainly awesome. I did a few of the easy routes and then ticked Clashing Socks 7b and Chulilla 7b+ on the second go. The company was good in the form of Tom Le Fanu and Adam Brown, both real crankers. The place heaving with people, loads of bristolian hard climbers which was very encouraging.

Happy crankin' folks

Sunny memoirs

2011-11-05T15:13:00.000Z

The endless summer

2011-10-17T15:04:00.003+01:00

The last post of a long trip is always really hard to write. There's a always a whole lot of mixed emotions: sadness, happiness, tiredness, nostalgia... The last post I wrote, it all sounded way too serious, and I can tell you that the whole trip was far from anything serious. We all tried to work on our goals, but this particular trip, we had loads of fun in between the hard cranking.

Hanging out with Andre has been a inspiration, learning how you can survive on a diet of just muffins, cakes, cookies and beer, and still crank hard. This young monster deserves a special mention. It has been an inspiration for me, to learn from the youngsters, a different approach with a different set of standards. I loved his advice to me for climbing hard. The most important is to not let go, no matter what, do not let go, even if your forearms feel like they are bleeding inside. And the least important thing is.... to clip the bolts! If you think you are gonna fall off, just carry on, keep going, forget about the rope he said! Hilarious. Belaying this dude is palm sweating stuff, specially in all his onsight attempts. And there's nothing you can say once the guy is off the ground, because the dude is bloody deaf! But I think that actually that is his best attribute, I haven't see anyone so absorbed and focused when climbing. It was heartbreaking that he didn't get his first 8b on this trip. He put a lot of effort on "Rendez with Platon", and 8b in the Jurassic Park sector. The worst was that he did get through the crux once, and he fell off on the easier ground above. And for the rest of the days, he couldn't get through the crux move again. But he took it on the chin and move onto other things. We still had a great time getting up there and getting spanked by hard routes. I had my fair share as well, being rejected by Raptor 7c+, The Sickle 7c and Neolithic Line 7c. But I got Carnivore 7c on my second go.

We've kept very positive through the month we've been stationed here. We have developed our own philosophy, called the "positive magnetism". Serious stuff folks. You see, there's also some intellectual thinking in climbing trips, not just conversations about hot girls, small crimps and route grades. The theory goes that if you think positive, it acts like a magnet, it attracts positive things. And if you think negative, like a magnet's opposite side, it will repel the good things. That also applies to climbing, if you think positive, your hands are like magnets and they stick to the holds. Just like the comic heros with special powers, curl your fingers around the crimp and think positive!!! Boom. We've been having some fun, I tell you.

I feel like I've been chasing the summer around Europe. When I mentioned this to Andre, he reminded me of a surf movie called the Endless Summer, where surfers go around the world chasing waves and, obviously, the summer. I felt a bit like that, in fact, every end of summer is always a bit nostalgic. But all good things come to an end. The weather in Kalymnos is totally crapped out now, a good preparation for the British weather. So I don't mind leaving the island, I'm now ready to go home, good things are waiting there.

There's quiete a few isolated chapels dotted around the coast, only accesible by boat. The story goes that when the Turks reigned the Greek islands, Christianity was forbidden and churches burned down. So the islanders built little chapels out of the way to carry on their workship. I assume back then, the path leading to the chapel wasn't painted bright white...

One of the last sunsets in the island, finely engraved in my memory...

Tapped Dragons for added friction in the crucial toe hook in the crux move in Rendez with Platon 8b

That particular day in Jurassic Park was very humid, and our skin suffered big time. We both saw a bit of blood.

Sheffield strongman Joe Cook on Neolithic Line 7c, one of the route that spit me off.

Joe at the top of Jurassic Park

The last send of the trip, the classic Eros 7b+ at Arhi. I didn't onsight it because I was running way past empty, but got it second go. Sweet! Andre of course flash it

The Muffin Monster in action, trying to break the rope with his Positive Magnetism power

The Sikati Warriors. Plenty of serious business in the cave

On Agealis 7c. I kept this route for the end of the trip, but maybe a bit too late. It was at the tail end and with no rest days and climbing in the blasting sun felt desperate to onsight. I didn't get a chance to go back and send it, so it will have to wait until next time.

Here is the list of all the routes I've sent this trip of grade 7 and above. There's plenty I didn't sent, which I'll get a rematch on my next trip:

Dike 7a (os)
Trela 7a (os)
Lolita 7a (os)
Kerveros 7a (os)
Dna 7a (os)
Kastor 7a (os)
Nike 7a+ (os)
Lucky luka 7b (os)
Kalinycta mer 7b+ (os)
Tufantastic 7b+ (os)
Eros 7b+ (2rp)
Alfredo alfredo 7b+ (2rp)
Polifemo 7c (3rp)
Priapos 7c (os)
Carnivore 7c (2rp)
Zawinul syndicate 7c+ (os)
Super-lolita 8a (3rp)

My first 8a

2011-10-07T13:23:00.005+01:00

Hardly a month goes by before hearing that some super-wad has climbed yet another 9a+ route. Young guns nowadays have it quite hard to make a name for themselves, the bar has raised significantly in the last 5 years and ticking 8c is seldom newsworthy. But climbing is a broad sport, it harnesses all sorts of individuals, and our dear sport means very different things to all of us. There are quite a few climbing folk out there that don't really care about hard grades or sport climbing for that matter, because their own personal challenge might be to get up an HVS or a Wi4. And yet sometimes, the journey of the average climber is far more interesting than yet another 8c+ onsight by Adam Ondra.

My last half a year has been quite a journey for myself. From being a pretty settled husband and about to get mortgaged, to be single and living in a flatshare. I never been afraid of changes, I thrive on them, so I just saw in such dramatic change as an opportunity. I decided that I was going to set a goal related to climbing, now that I had more time for myself, I could really try and push it. A few years back I found that I had quite a good hand at ice and mixed climbing, and I spent a lot of time training for it and I have sacrificed a lot of my family and climbing time to do well in that discipline. This time I wanted to try and do well on rock, something I have always sort of left in the back burner. I set myself to climb 8a. Not a major grade by any means of today's standard, but a challenge big enough for a old punter like me.

As soon as I got settled in my new life, I got to work on my goal. Without going too much into detail, it started in spring going outdoors pretty much every weekend and falling in love with rock again. Motivation is everything in this world, and getting psyched for real rock gives you the drive to go back indoors and train hard for it. So that's been the story of my summer, train hard at the wall and do redpoint sessions on rock at the weekend. Some trips abroad to inspiring crags like Margalef and Mallorca were mandatory to remind me how magic this sport is. By the end of the spring I decided I was going to have a long break, to have fun and mainly go climbing. I booked 3 months off, and made my second home (a cheap tent…) in Rodellar, Spain. I recruited a whole lot of people so I didn't run out of partners in the month and a half I was going to be there. I got myself to work as soon as I got there. I picked the best 7c and 7c+'s that would get me strong and fit. I also arranged for a months trip to Kalymnos, where I am now, with some young strong climbers. I used my time in Rodellar as a training camp to try and climb my hardest ever on rock on Kalymnos. I know this island has reputation for soft grades, but in the last 6 years year most routes have been subject to constant downgrading.

The time here in Kalymnos has been very rewarding. I've been following my friend's Seweryn's advice of "rest more, climb more", now that I have the fitness from Rodellar I wouldn't have to worry about volume of routes, just the quality. So I started the trip targeting iconic routes in the high 7's. Now with a score of four 7c's and five 7c+, I felt ready to tackle the big challenge. After questioning all my friends about a suitable candidate, I decided to go for Super-Lolita, a 45mts stamina fest in one of the most inspiring rock venues in the world, the Sikati Cave. I have never been one for monster sport routes, I always found them overwhelming and a lot of hard work, specially if you fall near the top, it can be very taxing on your body and mind. It's a lot easier to work shorter routes, hence "daniboy" and "angelica" are always line-up with people. But with my new-found endurance from my training and Rodellar, I felt fit for such a vertical expedition.

"Super-Lolita" was bolted for the Petzl rock trip that took place in 2005, and it is the extension of a 7a called "Lolita". I figured that the french team that bolt it graded the route with the consensus of all the international participants in the trip, so therefore should be fairly accurate. On my first attempt I onsighted past the first pitch belay and got to the crux. I sorted all the extended quickdraws up until there as rope drag can be a major issue. Andre had a go at the route as his warm up, and to his surprise, he onsighted the whole thing in a great display of raw strength. I had one more attempt that day, and fell on the crux. I worked the moves through the crux and left it there feeling utterly exhausted having climbed roughly over 100mts of hard climbing. I took two days off to make sure I was totally fresh on my next go.

We made our way back to the cave, this time with loads more people in it. I warm up with two laps of the 7a, and by the time I was done the queue for the route was six people long. Luckily I belayed Andre on his 8b, and by the time we were done the queue had shortened. Soon I was tied off and fully psyched for a redpoint attempt. With such big routes you have to set goal-posts along the way. Bearing the whole route at once can be overwhelming, so break it down in section helps a lot. The goal for that attempt was to get through the crux and inspect the upper part, that I still hadn't seen. I got to the rest below the crux, got totally psyched just focusing on the few moves of the crux. To my surprise I dispatched it effortlessly. Then suddenly, it hit me like a train, I was in for a chance of sending it. Instantly I became a nervous wreck! I got past the next hard section onsighting along the way, and got to the next rest. I couldn't bring my heart-rate down, I thought I was going to trow-up rig there. I closed my eyes for what it seemed and age, but must have been ten minutes. Feeling a bit better now, I went for the upper part of the route, which is about 7b climbing into a headwall section with a crimp finale, not my strong point. But being there, so close, I wasn't going to let go now. I got through the 7b roof, on to the crimp section, battling with rope drag. I managed to pull enough slack up to my mouth and pull the rest up with my teeth. Managed to clip the draw and carry on in search for the next desperate crimp. I found it, and as Andre warned me, it wasn't very good. I pulled on it, got my feet higher, and to my surprise I was still on the rock and looking at a good hold and the chains within sight. I took a generous amount of time to climb the next few moves on big holds, just making dead sure I wasn't going to blow it now. Clipped the chains. My first 8a.

Masouri village. Past is the glory days of beach tourists... bring on the rock tourists!

Another shot for the sunset collection.

We have the best views from our apartments

Dave high up in Morgan & Adam 7c+/8a

A pleased man

Andre Hedger, the poster boy! I wish he brought his camera, so I'd have more pictures of me ;)

33 quickdraws needed for the womens ultimate route in the Peztl Rock trip. Andre onsighted the 8a first pitch.

I love this island

Sikati cave, a massive crater in the side of a mountain

The real paradise!

The best way to finish your day

Clear waters to clean all those cuts & scraps

The man-made stalagmites

The scale of it is overwhelming

The routes in Sikati are vasts to say the least. People keep going on about soft grades in Kalymnos. It's all fitness dependant, if you are fit you will find it easy. If you are climbing at Raven Tor, you will find it desperate.

Where's Wally?

Crazy formations on Morgan & Adam 7c+/8a

Andre navigating through tufas on his onsight of Morgan & Adam 7c+/8a

Andre on the conglomerate section of Lolita 7a

The impressive Sikati Cave

The greatest hole in the ground

The scooter rides are fun!

Soft landing

2011-10-01T13:50:00.000+01:00

Things are ticking over on in the island. I'm cashing in the benefits of the hard work in Rodellar, and my fitness is definitely up there now. I had to sacrifice some pleasure ticks in Rodellar for the sake of getting the fitness up on hard routes, for the only purpose of climbing monster pump-fest in Kalymnos. All theories and advices I took are working well. The two most important were my friends Seweryn's, "rest more, climb more"(and harder I would had...) And Ciro's advice (having done half Ironman's knows a thing or two about fitness) of overcompensating, which was to absolutely exhaust your body n order for it to overcompensate and come out a lot stronger at the other end.

So far the highlights are flashing monster 35mts 7b+ and 40mts 7c in a day, and flashing another monster 35mts 7c+ two days later. And knowing I could do it and going for it almost as satisfactory as the ticking the routes. Like yesterday flashing Zawinul Syndicate 7c+, the route has a massive run out after the crux to avoid rope drag, it's about 8mts, and I wasn't faced, just went for it. That felt good. Sometime things just come together and feel effortless.

There's been a lot of talk about soft grades. Most routes have been downgraded to match 8a.nu scorecards, and if you don't have the fitness, the grades are on the money. It's a similar story as Rodellar, if you are fit the routes feel easy, but how do you get fit for a 40mts tufa fest? It totally depends on what sort of route and the sector. I did a 7c in Odysey called Polifemo, it's 20mts high and more on the power-endurance side. It took me 4 attempts, similar to what I'd expect of a route in UK or Spain, just because is similar style. So it totally depends what you've trained for.

Anyways, happy crankin' folks

Flashing Priapos 7c

One of the many many rests on Priapos. It's graded counting the rests, so if you don't recover totally there, it's over for you...

Andre feeling the pump on the onsight of Priapos 7c

Awesome lines all around

Andre onsighting Tufantastic 7b+

I love Kalymnos as you can tell

Clocking airmiles

Dave ditched the ice axes for once in his life

Dave got Priapos on his third go

The sunsets are out of this world

Our apartments with brilliant views

The motherload, awesomeness in pure state

Tufa love in Priapos 7c

Life in the island

2011-09-26T16:53:00.002+01:00

It's been a mad few days. I've gone from the heat of Spanish summer, to land right in the middle of a British winter, to be back again in the gorgeous Greek summer. I think I'm going skizzo! Less than a week ago I was in Spain at the tail end of my Rodellar trip, totally immerse in climbing mode. I had a month and a half of camping life, shorts and flip flops being my only daily uniform. And to be honest, I was ready to go by then. I realise that camping life as we do it (i.e. no fancy camper vans) worns you out little by little, and by the end, you are craving for a proper bed and a proper meal. Or maybe it's just me that I'm getting old! Anyways, the plan was to fly to london for a night and off to Kalymnos early in the morning after. But I wished a I booked a few days in London seeing friends, before another month on the road. Then I got a call from my future employer, asking if I could be in Milan for a few days before Kalymnos. Bingo! I managed to get a few days in London and then Milan for the fashion week. I love the contrast, one night you are sleeping on a sloping pitch in a cheap tent sweating your balls off, and the other you are in a nice comfy hotel room. Hilarious. Anyways, for those interested, Milan during the fashion week, is such a ludicrous and pretentious circus show that is only tolerable with a good dose of sense of humour, just like watching a really bad horror movie (certainly some of the outfits you see could be out of such movies).

Back to the climbing. I got to Kalymnos three days ago. I got here after 48hrs of very little sleep, too much to drink and not enough good food in my body. I met with my friend Andre here in the island, and it was straight to climbing with the help of loads of Greek silty coffee. I was glad to onsight a 7a that day without falling asleep before clipping the chains. Things got better the day after, when I onsighted a 7b called "Lucky Lucka" at Odyssey, and made very good progress on a 7c called "Polifemo". I should have really sent it that day, but the crux for me is a slab with very small crimps, and I haven't used holds like that for about 2 months (not the type of holds you find in Rodellar…) Yesterday I went back up to settled the score and I sent it on my second go after working out a better foot sequence. I realised that Kalymnos offers a vast variety of terrain to climb, a lot more than Rodellar. The routes at Odyssey can be very crimpy and sequencey, and foot work is very important. Obviously, in Grande Grotta of Sikati cave is a whole different business.

It's been good to have a good crowd here in the island. Tim entertained us with his adventure to rescue a goat from Sikati cave. Apparently Google searches recommend a bag full of food tied to the goats neck to keep him happy and also blind-fold it so to minimise stress. Laughs all around were ensured. A whole group of Bristolians and Londoners where here, and some of my friends amongst them. They know the island very well due their prolific bolting, so getting first hand recommendations is very easy. I think we have the lowdown now on what's good to do, and feel totally fired up. Andre got food poisoning last night and is feeling sorry for himself today, so the 8a+ tick will have to wait until tomorrow, which I have no doubts he will crush.

For me is about raising the bar a little bit tomorrow, and will start with the 7c+ bracket. Being my fourth day climbing maybe it will feel hard work, but the routes here are so awesome that my name written all over it. Priapos, Aegealis, Fun de Chichune, Danyboy…. Like a kid in a sweetshop

Happy climbing chaps

Tim navigating the stalactite forest of the Grande Grotta

Team crush, Tim Emmet and Andre Hedger

Andre savouring the best sunsets ever

Odyssey sector

Beach life

Stunning stuff

More sunsets, sorry can't help it

Tim Priapos 7c, like a kid in a sweetshop

The dead-end road to 8a, for now...

2011-09-12T11:37:00.002+01:00

The last two weeks here in Rodellar have been about the one thing and one thing only, my first 8a route. I didn't choose the most suitable route for my strengths, but I did choose one the would certainly challenge me. And indeed it did! Ciro and I have been working slowly through the 32mts of climbing in "Gracias Fina", and it's taken a lot of effort to unlock some of its climbing. People say it's a soft touch 8a, but to me it felt super hard, like loads harder than any other 7c+'s I've done. I don't know what 8a is suppose to feel like, the but the step from 7c+ to 8a a LOT bigger than, say, 7c to 7c+. Truth to be told, I have never project anything for more than a few days, and after a few goes I would know whether I can send it. I have never really done an "all-in gamble", where you put all your chips on one route. So far I feel like I lost the bet. It didn't help that I felt worn out of 6 weeks of camping life and not getting enough rest. I can't remember the last day I woke up feeling fresh. I will go out climbing for another few days and totally empty the tank, and then have 10 days rest before Kalymnos. I hope Ciro's theory of "overcompensation" works out well!

So this would be the end of my first round to get an 8a before 2012. Second round will be in Kalymnos next month, and I think I'll be doing things differently. One thing will be getting more rest days, rather than 2 days on 1 day off, which doesn't quite work for me as I accumulate fatigue through the days. It will be a clash with Andre, who is a beast and will go all out for as long as he can, as I come to realize in Ceuse. I'm not quite that fit!

Now to do some more climbing, but the pressure is off for a few days...

Cristiano working a very crimpy "Estrella Fugaz" 7b+

The calm before the storm. Will getting ready for a battle on "The Kings of Metal" 7c+

Tim Hill on his redpoint attempt of "Tragaldabas" 7c+

We've been getting a lot of this...

... and a lot of this too

Strong USA climber, Ben, on some gnarly 8c in Ventanas

Stu on his last attempt on Kings of Metal

The "ice water" treatment. Spot the Spaniard...

Little magic box, Sony WX1, wide angle. Awesomeness in your pocket.

The "Ventanas de Mascun" (The windows of the river Mascun), meaning the arches

Made in Mascun

2011-09-01T17:41:00.005+01:00

It's been a while since the last post here in Rodellar, for different reasons. One is that I spent a few days in Barcelona seeing friends and partying a little bit, just to break up the 3 months climbing. Luckily I didn't overdo the naughtiness and came back to Rodellar ready for a challenge. On the first night of being back we had a massive storm that totally soaked the crags and saturated the ground, meaning all the routes with tufas were dripping wet. I had to give up on my 8a project because it was like standing under a shower, no kidding. It has been more than a week now and is still wet. I choose to open a new account in a new route and went for an old unfinished business with Made in Mascun 7c+. Now, this route is a funny one, it climb up about 10mts of 7b or so to a totally horizontal roof that goes on for about 20mts. It's a route that depends wholly on fitness. If you are fit, you'll find it easy, if you are not, you will feel like you are in a boxing ring battling your way through a very tough opponent. You get just two attempts in 1 day, it's impossible to have any more, because it just takes all you've got to get as far as you can through the roof. For the last couple of attempts I just felt I could do it, it was just a matter of staying fresh and not making mistakes. Yesterday I felt really good and really up for it, and once I got on the roof I just felt really solid and everything flowed as it should have been, it was almost a matter of executing what I knew. When I clipped the chains there was no scream or anything, I just knew I was going to do it, no way I was falling off then! Last night we went for a delayed birthday celebration with Paella and a few rounds of well-deserved beers.

So now I'm scratching my head on what to do next. The options are somewhat limited due some routes being wet and also what the others want to do. I'm keen on finding another 8a to work on, but the question is which one. Will keep you guys posted.

That's all folks, happy cranking!

A well deserved break to Barcelona with good company

I forgot how cool the beach is in BCN city. Great for those sore muscles

Finally got the badge. This was the biggest battle I had on a route, very happy it's done!

Mascun gorge, my favourite limestone

Gran Boveda. Awesome sector, shame I still haven't done much here. It would help if I could do 40mt 8a's and 8b's.... One day maybe

This is the very important hold that broke in "El Delfin" 7c+. Every year a hold breaks of the route and there's always talks that it is 8a or harder. But this time, having belayed Cris on it who's a veteran on the route, we can confirm that is definitely a lot harder than 7c+. Unless someone bolts the hold back on...

Jerome feeling defeated by a round on Made in Mascun. I totally understand how that feels mate

Jerome in an awesome and gnarly 6b+ called "Recuerdos de mi abuelo" in Palomera sector, bolted my friend Javi Bueno.

Ciro flashing "Pikku Kana" 6c+ at Pince sans rire

Stu flashing "Daniel" 7a+ at Egocentrismo sector

Great team!

Ciro going for it for a flash attempt of "Toma Castañazo" 7a+

Stu flashing "Toma Castañazo" 7a+. I was pleased to have onsighted two 7a+ at El Camino sector

The mad steepness of Made in Mascun 7c+. Definitely a challenge for me

It's about 20mts of horizontal climbing, which I totally dig

American rock star Sasha DiGiulian on "Pata Negra" 8c

Stu high up in "The Kings of Metal" 7c+. Bring the big guns for this

The Bible

Camp life in Mascun campiste

Jerome fighting his way on Made in Mascun

A little clip of the ascent of "Tu si que vales" 7c+

Gaining momentum

2011-08-17T11:45:00.001+01:00

Yesterday was a good day, Jerome and I sent the 7c+ we've been working on. It all went to plan and it's great to execute the plan as you were planning it the night before. I went onto working on the 8a I've my sights on called "Rebelion en la Granja", which felt quite desperate, but that's what it should feel like, otherwise it wouldn't be a step up. I couldn't really even put the draws up, so Jimbo step in to work the route with me, so thanks to him I can now work the moves. Jerome went onto flashing "Pince sans rire" 7b+ which I thought it was a terrific effort after putting all work in the morning sending the 7c+.

Jerome working the extremely burly start of "Tu si que vales" 7c+

Jimbo high up in Amistad 7c+ in Gran Boveda

Me sending "Tu si que vales" 7c+ on my fourth attempt

A cool little place in Sierra de Guara, Rodellar

Tufa love... Jerome on Gladiator 8a

South Africa's strongman Jimbo, is crushing at the mo with 7c's onsights

Jerome on his successful ascent of "Tu si que vales" 7c+

Slow start in Rodellar...

2011-08-14T18:47:00.000+01:00

It's been a week in Rodellar and not much has been happening. I'm trying to warm up to the place again and to the mega routes that beat the crap out of me. So far I'm working on a 7c+ project that doesn't suit my skills, it an enduro route and I just run out of juice in the jugs way past the crux. I feel so unfit for this long routes. But it will come in time, just gotta enjoy the process and have fun. On the other hand, Jimbo and Jerome have been cranking fairly hard, with 7c's onsights and 7c+'s on second attempts. So hats off to the chaps, way to go!

Jerome flashing "A toru pasau" 7a+

High up in Ventanas sector

Spot the climber! Jimbo high up in "La Piton" 7c+

about to do the hand-rail traverse move in Iron Man 7b

Awesome rest days. Gosh, London feels a long way away...

South African star Jimbo showing off in Ventanas de Mascun

Battles, not wars...

2011-08-01T16:36:00.001+01:00

Another battle won. The unexpected battle to tick "Everyday lives of ordinary people", a feisty little 7c in Cheddar Gorge. It tested our resilient fingers to the maximum, and aggravated existing injuries. But despite all, I walked away with the tick. Unfortunately Ciaran will have have to wait a bit longer for the tick. In fairness, the route smacks you in the face with a heinous first boulder move of V6, and Ciro doesn't do bouldering, but he came very very close to stick it. Luckily for me, I do alright in bouldery and powerful routes. The journey in ticking the route went like this:
"I've recently done a 7c+ fairly quickly, I should tick this in a couple of goes...."
"Oh my god this is desperate, it will never go, no chance in hell..."
"Ok, I don't care, let's keep lobbing off for training sake..."
"Thanks Charlie for the new beta... game's on!"
"Ibuprofen, finger tape, jeez this holds are painful!!!! more Ibuprofen, more finger tape... sent!"

We have enjoyed our weekend battles in Cheddar. In two weekends, I've got a 7b flash, a 7b+ and a 7c. Ciro got a 7b second go (sterling effort!), 7b+ with just one more attempt than me, and work his arse off in a 7c. It's a good summer crag for getting the power and technique in top form. The training plan has been to do beasting enduro routes at the climbing wall, anything from 4 to 8 laps up and down without touching the ground, on a not less than 6b route. We've broken our bodies slowly but surely doing that. Then focus all technique and power on real rock on the weekends, so we drill in reading rock and precise footwork on technical british limestone. I think the combination of both will be a recipe for success. It's too early to say, and no one else I know is doing this training, so it's hard to say whether it will work. It is too early to cash in the benefits anyways. We will be able to tell only once we peak and put it to the test. My only problem is that my peak is suppose to last 3 months... So the real war is yet to be won.

No more British rock for me this summer. It's served its purpose, but the real deal awaits elsewhere. The next piece of rock I'll be pulling on will be some golden Spanish limestone. My love affair with British limestone will be resumed in November, when we'll be soaking in cider...

Summer nostalgia

2011-07-27T12:42:00.000+01:00

I truly think that my drive to be away climbing as much as I can on long trips comes from the nostalgia of summer holidays when we were kids. Growing up in small town in Catalunya was great in many aspects, but the one that's shaped me the most is the freedom to roam, to get up to mischief and spend hours and hours exploring the surroundings of my neighborhood. Where I'm from, you are exposed to the outdoors as a playground, whether is climbing, mountaineering, mushroom picking, mountain biking... everyone is up to something. I had endless energy (not much has changed really...) so I tried a lot of things. I did my rite of passage in mountain-biking, hill-walking, tag along with my dad in mammoth days of mushroom picking, and then joined the local ski school when I was about 12. But, I had something for vertical stuff. We would find the highest bridges above water and abseil using hemp ropes and old figure-of-8 abseil devices. We knew it was dodgy, but the worst that could happen was a 26mts free fall onto water... We were young... Later on in life we went back to the same bridge just to jump off, and we discovered it was just a bit too high when my mate dislocated his arm on landing. When I was 14, a neighbor invited me to join them for some climbing. Why did it take him so long, I was craving for some rock-climbing! Anything "extreme" and "dangerous", I was up for it! I was hooked from day one. Now the hard work was to find old gear we could borrow and convince my bro and my neighbors to get into it. Luckily they got psyched for the adventure, despite not knowing what we were doing. For starters we didn't have harnesses, so we used pieces of rope making a sling harness. Thinking about it now, I'm amazed we didn't kill ourselves. I think we had a good sense of self-preservation somehow.

I hold all of those memories of adventure very close to my heart, and they have been pivotal to shaping who I am now. For the last few years since I've relaxed a bit more about my career, I just been chasing that nostalgic thought of holiday and adventure. I know most of us go on holidays and climbing trips. But I try to cut-off totally for a few months in summer, and winter. I feel it is only then that I reconnect with that young boy growing up in a small backwater town. That's the only reason I can think off I keep spending my summers in Rodellar for the last 5 or 6 years. I just feel the taste of freedom at my fingertips. I know it's totally nostalgic of me, and for other people that place means other things, but that is what it does for me. I've lucky enough that I've managed to carve myself in a niche in the design industry in London and I don't need to work all the time.

So enter this Friday at 18.00pm, and it's the beginning to my summer holidays! Won't be back in London until end of October. Thats sounds so sweet, that I can't hardly believe it. There's a catch though, I'll be taking a full-time job once I return. No panic though, I will still get my 50 days paid holidays, and option for more if I really can't cope with 50.

The plan is to head out to my folks in Sallent, get a car and straight to Rodellar. I will team up with Jerome Mowat, who should be in top shape after 3 weeks in Ceuse. Apart from a Barcelona escapade for a weekend, I will spending all my time in the mountains. On rest days I'll be driving to Lleida and try and help my friend Nic with the house they have recently bought and hopefully bolting their backgarden crag. There will be people coming and going, but my mission will be the road to 8a. So I apologize in advance if I don't show signs of excitement at the thought of ticking 7a's (well, I think I've done them all!). Most people will be leaving second week of september, which will leave me a week to potter around and maybe do some more work at Nic' and Ella's place. Originally I was going to get the ferry over to Mallorca, but now that seems a bit of hassle for a weeks climbing. And then, the double wammy, 4 weeks in Kalymnos with Andre. Again, that will be a total 8a mission. Unilateral, undivided and obsessively focused on that goal. Because enter November and a lot of other things will enter my life's equation. So the game is ON, and hoping to achieve my goals and have a whole lot of fun along the way.

Happy crankin' folks!

Schooled in Ceüse

2011-07-13T14:43:00.001+01:00

A couple of weeks ago I booked some flights for a long weekend to Spain in the heat of the moment. I didn't have a plan, just a vague idea to go and check my friend's crag to be bolted and maybe do some climbing in Lleida. That changed at the very last minute with a stitch-together plan to go to Ceuse for 3 days. I flew into Spain, do all the mandatory family visits and jump on my parent's newly-converted van heading to Ceuse. I thought I was going to crush the place. My god how wrong I was.

First off, I forgot what a bitch that walk-in is, and realised how my aerobic fitness is rock-bottom. I sort of knew that thanks to Ciro pointing it out. Something to do with Glycogen Index and sugar levels, I really don't know, I have to figure it out. Another friend, french Nic, was also onto the same song, he actually had a heart-rate monitor to check his fitness just to see if he needed to do something about. He did indeed! But apparently being fit is one of the crucial pieces of the Ceuse jigsaw. An average route will be 30mts, but 45, 50 and even 70mts routes are common, it does make sense when you see the size of the cliff! Quite a world appart from the 15mts routes in Brean Down.

I was in Ceüse 4 years ago. I hated the place. The walk up 800 vertical meters, the stiff grades, the lack of any quality routes below 7b, and that everyone else didn't seem to have a problem with all of that. I promised myself that I wouldn't be back unless I was climbing 7c. I was hard to argue when people asked me why I've written off the place, but it made sense. And now that I'm climbing 7c I thought I had a chance to enjoy the uber-classic routes. Ceüse has the highest concentration of quality 7c's and 7c+ anywhere: Vagabond, Mirage, Privilege du Serpent, Tenere, Makach... they are all out of this world! I was meeting Andre, Jerome and Asha there, and Andre being the psyche machine he is, came up with a whole plan for me. It was he rest day when I got there, but he dutifully walk up the crag with me and started me with the plan. Lapping the worlds hardest and polished 6c+, then a 7a, then onsight SuperMicky 7b, and then quick work on Vagabond 7c. The plan stopped when I fell off my second lap on the 6c+, utterly flash pumped. Then fell-off again the 7a which I've done easily 4 years ago. Then made a right meal of SuperMicky, a straight-forward 7b. At that point I realised I wasn't going to walk out of the trip with 7c classic tick.

Day two, started a bit better. After painfully warm up on the 6c+, I got on SuperMicky to finish it off. I got to the crux alright, feeling good, but then pulling on a shouldery move on a slopper my shoulder start aching badly. I fell-off, and tried the move a few times. The pain grew to a point I had had to come down. On the ground I started to get worried when I couldn't even lift my empty rucksack. Suddenly I panic about the thought of ruining my upcoming long climbing trip in Rodellar and Kalymnos. Back at the campiste it was a diet of Ibuprofen and some miraculous deep-heat cream from USA that Andre swears by. The day after I managed to do a bit of climbing wich lift my spirits, but far from good. Will have to come up with a good plan of recovery.

Despite all, we had an awesome time. I had the chance to hang out with most of the strongest young British talent. Fellow Alpkit climber Luke Tilley is on fire, got his first 8b on the second redpoint. The Hammer brothers are also crushing the place, Ed got the same 8b as Luke with very short work. Other young talent like Ethan Walker, Robbie Phillips, Nat Berry and Kitty Wallace are also crushing. It's good to see they got the right end of the stick in climbing. And do not underestimate Andre Hedger, he's up there with the lot, I truly believe he will get his 8b before the end of the year, not bad for a 22 year old.

I'll be back to UK tonight and it's off to the Cris the physio as soon as possible.

Happy cranking folks!

Camp Crusoe. My folk's van is totally awesome

Mr. Hedger cranking hard on onsight attempt of Tenere 7c+

The Legends! These two are dangerous together

Jerome swapped fluro plastic holds of the Westway for beautiful orange limestone of Vagabond 7c. He got it on the 3rd go, not bad for his first 7c tick.

Andre cutting loose on the roof of Tenere...

...and the heart-breaker rock-over and mantel to finish it off.

Bring your big guns in Ceüse

In memory of Gerry Sheehy

2011-06-30T14:56:00.000+01:00

Life's a funny game, one day you are over the moon having a blast and the other spanner's thrown in the works and you are rock bottom. The other day I just got the really sad news that Gerry had taken his own life last weekend, leaving behind a wife and two small daughters. My heart sank. It was hard to keep any of the 'joie de vivre' from the Mallorca trip.

Gerry was an brilliant Irishman and a keen rock-climber. I met him through the UKC forums and we soon hit it off. We first hooked up doing the mad game of chalk climbing. You don't find many people in this world keen enough for that sort of stuff, so usually is like-minded people. We had a few good sessions down there, the best being when the Coastguard rescue came and fetch us because someone had raise the alarm. Gerry's solution to climbing in the dark was to attach a mega-strong mountain bike beam to his helmet, and thus alerting some of the neighbors above the cliff. I'm still laughing now at the look of the Coastguards finding this two madmen climbing crumbling chalk cliffs in the middle of the night! It takes a certain mind to be up for that, and Gerry was one of those.

Neither of us had a car, but we had bikes. He wasn't fazed at the prospect of getting to crags around the country with our push bikes. The most memorable was when we decided to hit Pembroke despite the bad weather forecast, and the small detail that my bike was a single-speed fixie-type. Obviously, me not having paniers and no gears, Gerry offered to carry all the kit, ropes, tents, wine... and he was still way faster that me. We had three days of terrible weather, but our combined power of nonchalant-ness got us a whole lot of routes in the bag, including a lot of E1's for Gerry, the hardest he's ever done. That weekend of 2008 will stay in my memory forever, thanks Gerry.

Then he moved up north to take up a full-time job, so to give his new family a bit more stability. He was was an awesome photographer, and did a lot of wedding stuff. But I've seen his other work, and me working with a lot of talented photographers every day, he was very good indeed. But unfortunately is a very competitive world and it's hard to make a decent living. So after him moving up north we didn't climb together anymore. We tried to organize trips but never got around doing them.

I had no idea he was struggling with life, he never mentioned or made reference to it, and I wish he had so I could help. It must have gotten pretty bad for him to leave his loved ones behind. I suppose I realize now that I didn't know him that well after all, but I wish he would have called me for a chat. I wish, I wish, I wish... too late now I'm afraid.

Gerry, wherever you are now, we miss you sadly and it hurts that you are not with us anymore.

Sun, Sea & Rock in Mallorca

2011-06-28T17:11:00.002+01:00

If this trip to Mallorca was a preparation for my 2 month climbing trip, then I'll be exhausting Spain's supply of wine and ice-cream, and just lay on the sun by the pool for the entire time. Don't get me wrong, I love to have my down time with the only thing to stressful decision is whether to drink red or white wine. This trip was more like a friends gathering, all climbers, but with different levels of motivation and some don't even climb much anymore. But that's what's so wonderful about climbing, it brings like-minded people together and then you realize you like them not just because they are climbers, but because they are truly nice people. Climbing has that connection.

The trip revolved around swimming in the pool, eat loads of nice food and stay up late, slowly going through the bottles in the cellar. So it's no surprise we didn't get much climbing done. We climbed at a some very late afternoon at lovely small crag called Galilea, which has some amazing lines in the high 7's with immaculate rock. The second day the original plan was to go to Fraguel, but our friend Miguel Riera, the godfather of Deep Water Soloing, tipped us that the place was shut for the summer. So following his advice we went to Gorg Blau, an stunning crag high up in the mountains. Again, onsighted some 7a's but totally failed getting up a 7b. Then we were psyched for some DWS at Diablo, and having Tim Emmett in our team, we couldn't refuse the offer of a guided tour. He warned us that it would totally out of condition, but we went anyways for the laugh. We tried Afroman 7b and we all failed, bombing into the water which was alot of fun. This was the first time Tim has fallen off Afroman, he's even done it naked, barefoot, drunk and in the dark. Obviously, I gave up on the idea of ticking the route that day. That night we got absolutely hammered and just spend the rest of the trip having a blast.

Finding the way to Gorg Blau

Team psyche!!!!!!

Scoping the awesome Diablo cave

The 6b traverse into Afroman felt absolutely desperate, it was so wet and slimey that you got pumped even in the biggest jugs (Photo Aid Baxter/Tom Reeves)

My first attempt to Afroman, amazing route by Tim Emmett (Photo Aid Baxter/Tom Reeves)

Survived the ordeal (Photo Aid Baxter/Tom Reeves)

Tim at the top of the 6a that I shat my pants on and backed off, so bloody high (Photo Aid Baxter/Tom Reeves)

Tim pulling up on wet holds (Photo Aid Baxter/Tom Reeves)

Timmy sending a 7c at Gorg Blau

Aid onsighting a 7c at Gorg Blau (Photo Tim Emmett)

Visionares: two of godfathers of Deep Water Soloing, Tim and Miguel Riera

Rest days were so much hard work

The crib, Son Sastre

Hola Mallorca

2011-06-23T11:04:00.000+01:00

Weekend warrior goes on holiday! Haha. Sitting at the airport waiting for the plane bound to Mallorca, and wondering whether I'll be able to put into practise all this new-found strength. I have certainly not rested enough as my body still hurts from last weekend, but I suppose it's all good training for my 2-month climbing trip coming up at the end of July. I'm not planning to rest much on that trip: bolting new crag in Lleida, climbing it and other summer crags around it, then the yearly pilgrimage to Rodellar, then ferry to Mallorca for some DWS and eventually 4 weeks in Kalymnos. Well, actually it's a fair bit more than two months... But since I'll be taking a full-time job at the end of october I have to make the most of the summer. Can't wait! i feel like a kid in anticipation for the summer holidays, happy days!

Weekend warriors

2011-06-20T14:23:00.001+01:00

Motivation has been high and we've been dodging the weather artfully on the weekends and getting climbing done when not many were. My partner in crime has been strongman Ciro Tracey, another one with seemingly endless supply of psyche. We've put a lot of hard work in, at the climbing wall and on rock, and it's starting to pay off. I realized a while back the importance of getting out on the weekends and not wait until the regular trips to Spain, meaning that when you actually get to euro crags, you hit the ground running. But, and a big but, I realized that the South West has some amazing limestone to be had. How on earth I lived in UK for 9 years without visiting Anstey's Cove, Torbryan, Brean Down and Cheddar? And they are super close to London, 2 to 3hrs, that's same distance as Siurana and Rodellar from Barcelona. So what are we complaining about here in the UK? It's all down to motivation.

We've been going through the paces of getting harder and better routes, always upping the ante and not getting complacent. We make every trip count. At Anstey's we made short work of Empire of the sun 7b, then at Brean Down also came up trumps with Tide Rising 7b+, Ciro giving it 16 redpoint attempts and putting an sterling effort. Last week we had a prep talk and decided we had to try something a lot harder, even if it meant getting shut down, and just project the crap out of something, no matter how long it would take, just trying our hardest and going for it. So we chose "Storm Warning", an excellent 3 stars 7c+ at Brean Down. The good thing about this route is that the first half is shared by an 8a and a 8b, so you can work the other routes with half of it already dialed and move up the grade ladder.

So we got down there ready for a battle. The weather was on and off, getting wet at times but perseverance pays off and the sun eventually greeted us. We started working on Storm Warning and finding out it was very powerful bouldery start, and then piecing it all together would be an race against the clock. We thoroughly enjoy working the individual boulder problems separately and putting all the work in without any expectations. On my third go I did the bottom half section clean to the rest, and that point I realized the route was going down soon, because the top bit it's only 7b+. Now it would be more a matter of endurance, which is my weak link. So we finished our saturday session very happy with our progress and went to the campsite to try and build a shelter in the gale winds with all Decathlon tents and tarp. It was very entertaining to say the least.

Sunday we woke up and after good doses of coffee and tea the game was one. Got down the cliff, warm up and bang on the route to start working. On my first go I was feeling good and I thought I had the necessary information so I went for the redpoint attempt, which got stopped short falling off at the crux. Despite that I carried on work on the route some more. Ciro had a good go at it and we came to the conclusion that we had the right beta for all the moves. On my second go I had a little chat to myself to psyche up and went all out. The crux is so fingery that your skin won't last for more than 2 or 3 tries. I stuck the crux, but my fingers were in agonizing pain. I had a long rest at the break to get it all back, then a little self-imposed anger to pool-up all my sending juice and before I knew it I was through the hard upper part. Clipping the chain was a bit of an epic but eventually succeeded.

Nic working on Tide Rising 7b+

Crag lunch Italian style, thanks Vale and Andrea for cooking

Drytooling IS a sport!

2011-06-03T13:23:00.005+01:00

Sorry Toby, but I have to disagree with your opinion in the Climb magazine article, that Drytooling is not sport. If it's not a sport, what is it then? Dancing? Gardening? The debate about Drytooling will carry on for a very long time in the UK (the Euros got pass that yonks ago!), and that's why I don't even bother posting at UKC threads anymore, they are useless for the purpose of developing the sport or the understanding its practise.

In fact, most of the sport mixed climbing in Europe and Canada is actually drytooling, not topping out on ice, and that IS a sport on its own, and a growing one. I'll go further, the Ice Climbing World cup is fundamentally Drytooling and it is officially sport fully supported and organized by UIAA. And watch out, because if the Russian Federation gets away with Ice Climbing as a demonstration sport in the next Sochi Winter Olympics, Drytooling will be in fact the first form of climbing to ever make it to the Olympics. That would be soooo ironic! And hilarious, love to see the face of all those UKCers posting all enraged! Ha ha ha... Whoever's attended to one of the world cup event can testify that the Russian Federation turns up with hordes of athletes that probably have never seen ice, all they do is drytooling and win competitions. So if that is not a sport, please someone tell me what is then! (read the history in UIAA website).

Me in the Ice Climbing World Cup, fundamentally a Drytooling comp (Photo Rob Gibson)

Anyways, I know Toby is avery sympathetic chap and his words are always very rational and calculated, and despite my difference in opinion, he has point. That is a small variation of climbing it doesn't mean is no less valid than bouldering, aid climbing, chalk climbing... I'm fed-up of being apologetic about it, sort keeping a dirty little secret. Screw it, I am a bloody drytooler (and a sport climber, and a trad climber, and boulderer, and an ice climber...) and proud of it. I love it, like any other forms of climbing. Drytooling is here to stay, and the longer it takes for people to realized it and regulated via BMC agreements, the more accidents will happen (ie. Millstone).

I think what the Climb magazine article is trying to say is that Drytooling is a means to an end, a training aid for the big mountains. Well no, it's an end to itself. I could be training Drytooling all year (I fully dedicated 6 month last year to just drytooling training) just to compete in the world cup and project mega-classic drytooling routes like Vertical Limit at Ueschenen or Caveman in Haffner Creek (both have no ice). There you go, an end to its self.

The means & the end: Tom Ballard on his successful ascent of Vertical Limit M12, an awesome drytooling route

Rob Owens on Caveman in Haffner Creek, another drytooling route (Photo Rafal Andronowski)

Master "Jedi" Raphael Slawinski on Piltdown Man in Haffner Creek, yet more awesomeness, a drytooling route despite the hoarfrost (Photo: Wiktor Skupinski)

I know there's a whole bunch of people out there not very receptive to this sport, but we are a respectful bunch and I don't see a reason why all disciplines of climbing can live together. I don't even know why I need to blog about it in response to a magazine article. I suppose all new forms of climbing have had to go though this, like sport climbing in the 80's and bouldering in the 90's. What? Are you outraged that I'm comparing DT to sport climbing or bouldering? Well, tough love chaps!.

Godspeed to all DT warriors!

Win some, lose some

2011-05-31T14:52:00.000+01:00

All that motivation talk on all my previous posts and for then to have a mediocre weekend trading in Pembroke. I was sort of jealous of the White Goods crew crushing E4's and E5's, but at the same time, at least some of us winter climbers were going delivering the goods (pun intended!) My headspace seemed to be in the right place and felt good and strong. So why didn't I try anything harder? Well, conditions were crap and all routes I tried were greasy and wet. The highlight of the trip was getting up First Blood, a classic E2 5c, in other words a 6a+ on gear, woohoo! From onsighting 7b to struggling on a 6a+, hilarious. At least the climbing was awesome. I repeated a whole bunch of easy E1's I've done before, it's good to be out, but on the long drive back in the rain I was looking miserably at my ticklist and couldn't help feeling the failure. When am I gonna break through this trad business for goodness sake? Will have to keep at it and keep trying. Hopefully the summer is not over yet!

Simplicity of things

2011-05-23T15:57:00.004+01:00

Humans tend to complicate things, it's in our nature. We think, we evolve, we hardly leave anything untouched. It's called civilization, I think. You can apply this principle to everything. Watching a BBC Human Planet program I saw an episode where a team of anthropologist located what's to be believed the last isolated primitive community in the Brazilian Amazon. That's what we were back in the days, but contemporary folk freak out if their IPhones don't get G3 connection.

With climbing, we make training too complex. We read Dave Mac's blogs, read the books, share knowledge at the wall and so on. Some say it's all about the Beastmaker, some say it's the campusing, some other circuits... arrrggh! I'm a bit of donkey, so most of the time I just get lost in this jungle of information. But I think that ultimately, things are simple: You can climb more, you get better. You try harder, you get better. You focus more, you get better. You make the right choices, and guess what? You get better.

Tom on the crux of The Empire of the Sun 7b (7b+ in the new book, but it is not)

Ciro on the desperate 6c+ arete

We've spend the weekend at Antsey's Cove in Devon, a small sports crag gathering the best routes sports in the UK (if you have a certain Spanish taste that is). There's a classic route for every grade, Empire of the sun at 7b, Just Revenge at 7c+, Cider Soak at 8a and Tuppence at 8b. If you, like me, like overhanging orange limestone in a sunny beautiful location, this is where it's at. My project there was supposed to be 'Empire', and after hearing many comments of how hard it was, I was ready to put up a battle. I was surprised to get the route done on my first redpoint. It just felt easy, and 7b's, specially in the UK, have never felt "easy" to me. There's only one explanation for that, that is hard training, and loads of it. You see, simple! Nothing massively clever, just going at it every session at the wall. I'm just lucky (or unlucky?) to have more time in my hands nowadays, so I've taken this precious opportunity and make the most of it whilst it lasts.

A busy Ferocity wall, good to see a lot of strong UK kids. Our own Aid Baxter back in action after a sabatical year, and making really good progress on Fisherman's Tale 8b

I can't believe I never been here before!!! What a cracking spot

It's funny that a few years ago I read an interview with Sharma, and he was saying he never "trained" for climbing. He just climbed. Trying the same hard things a million times until you body gets used to it. It didn't make sense then, it makes sense now (despite him actually being a good climber and me being an spazz...).

Anyways, don't want to sound like an arrogant idiot preaching my song. Just saying that the biggest changes come from being motivated, staying positive and being super-psyched!!!

What a poser!

Immaculate rock with great climbing on it

By the way, I never believed in God, but there's a new God in town and it's called Ondra, and his religion is called "The Church of Happy Cranking!". Hahaha. Here is his message:

BD athlete Adam Ondra making the first ascent of Chaxi Raxi (9b) at Oliana, Spain from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Drytooling debate

2011-05-09T16:22:00.002+01:00

Interesting article about the goods and evils of drytooling by Katie Dartford. Worth reading and cool pictures.

Good Progress

2011-04-26T18:00:00.003+01:00

It has hardly been two months since I hang my axes for the season and started the transition from ice&mixed to rock. Normally it takes me about the whole spring/summer to get in shape and reach my top performance by end of summer, and in general the big struggle is always the finger strength and power-endurance. I usually tick my hardest sports grades by the end of the summer and start training for the coming winter straight away around the beginning of September. If you know a bit about training patterns, you can figure out that my ice climbing totally jeopardizes my rock-climbing, a sacrifice that I'm totally aware off and willing to make.

You could say that my average grade in sport climbing is about 7a. After a lot of hard work and fitting as much training as life allows, I have done one 7c and 7c+. So I know how much work goes into getting to that grade for an ice climber, and surpassing that, say 8a, I have to at least put as much work as the season before plus some more. Normally I don't tick 7b until I get my ass down to Spain at some point in May/June, and not without a battle.

This year seems to be in a different track. I just got back from a short trip with a proper 7b onsight and a 7b+ on second go with a wet finish (my OS attempt was finished by heavy rain), and it's just April! I was truly chuffed and surprised about my performance, and it got me thinking about what I'm doing different from the many previous years so I could learn something from it. The answer is that is a combination of a few things done in a different way that add to a different result.

The first thing I did to do a lot of circuits at the wall, tackling power-endurance. Very simple, maximum power at my maximum level for the maximum amount of time, until you drop dead. Hard work, I tell ya! I kept increasing the grade and did it for 2/3 weeks with some bouldering sessions in between. After that I tackle the routes. Now, this is the hard bit, because training on routes is difficult. First thing I did is to choose to climb with people that would bring something to me and I'd get better. I climb with Ciro, a tough Scott with a no-nonsense approach. The first he'll do on the first route is get to the chains not having clipped the last bolt, pull a whole lot of slack and just let go. If you weren't paying attention then I can tell you will by now! He uses his maximum chance to stick a move, every time, all the time. Climbing with him has definitely helped fixed my head after my bad fall this winter. People like him has made a difference in my performance. I made the conscious decision to make every training session at the wall count for something. It has to go into a bucket, the hard-moves bucket, the falling practise-bucket, the redpoint bucket... And eventually you collect what's in every bucket and you are a winner!

This is just a 6b+ line, but probably one of the best anywhere. It's all about the fun, no matter the grade, something to always remember

The other thing I did different was getting out of rock in the UK as much as possible. It doesn't matter the sport climbing in the UK it's all a bit crap, get out there and get stuck in. I never do well sport cli,bing in the UK, I always find the grades hard, not my style, bla bla bla. That's not the point, the point is trying and get fit on rock, even if you don't see it in front of your eyes, you are getting strong and fluid on rock.

And finally, what's glued everything together is motivation. I go to a trip and try to do well, try to have fun and try hard, all healthy stuff. Keep positive and get psyched for what I'm doing, without stressing or pressuring myself, because that kills the fun and that's what's all about!

A Spanish chap working a classic old-school 7c called Patiasso Pallaso at Disblia sector in St. Llorenç de Montgai. Again, it's not about the grades, but the line looks so cool that I want to climb 7c so badly!!

A new chapter

2011-04-20T18:20:00.001+01:00

Drifting or flying? Positive thoughts amongst negative ones. Ahhh life, hahhaha....

Once in a while you got to sit down and take stock of what's happening around you. Without sounding too dramatic, I've been recently thinking about at the whole picture of life due personal circumstances. You think your life is drawn in a map, and that's what you spend most time doing, putting things in place in an orderly manner. You study, get a job, go climbing and travel places, getting into a relationship, getting married, having kids... Not in that particular order, or all of them either, but you get the point. Us climbers are a bit of a different kind, there's always climbing to calibrate everything else against it. But even for us free-spirits, we drawn the map for our life. Whether is dirt-bagging it in euro crags and crush numbers or high-flying career with weekend escapades, everyone's got a plan, we all want to know where we are heading. My point is that sometime lifes throws you a spanner in the works and you gotta deal with it. In my case, I have recently become single and that was something I wasn't expecting. And no, it wasn't because of my demanding affair with climbing, if you were wondering. But I suppose everything plays a part and everything has an effect.

So, suddenly, everything needs re-calibration. The map I had ain't good anymore. I've got to re-invent another road for me, and that's an awesome opportunity and I'm super psyched for it, despite all the sadness of a failed relationship. So let the new chapter begin...

Freedom can be a double-edge sword. It's great to have all the liberty to do whatever the hell you fancy. Wanna go climbing for 3 years? Why not? Nothing's stopping you. But at the same time, there's the danger of drifting aimlessly in life with no real purpose. And that's as dangerous as no freedom at all, because you loose the motivation to do stuff because you "don't have to" do anything. I'm rebuilding my goals in life again, but I'm in the open-minded stage. I'm letting myself being influenced by other things, you got to be receptive to new input and see where that will take you.

Fancy building a cabin with your hands. But what notch would I use?

Now that we have all the spiritualism out of the way (got to gain a few pounds to resemble anything like a Buddha! haha), let's talk a little bit about climbing. Here in the UK we've been having some amazing weather and I've taken the oppotunity to hook up with good people to take me out climbing and making the most out of it. I even went DWS in April, WTF? But I can't wait to get back there, specially in prepaparation for the Mallorca trip. Which brings me to the first point of my new map...

What are the goals? What's my mission? Well, this year I'm going rock-climbing as much as I can and take it easy, enjoy life. I moved out to west London to be closer to the climbing wall and to my friends, and easier to get out of London. I've started using Streetcar scheme, which is a genius idea and so convenient, so not having a car is not an issue anymore. I want to make my training sessions count for something, every session's got to count! The there's the trips, lists, shortlist, mega-shortlist of places to go, that I always wanted to go! Ok, so I want to go to Mallorca, I'm ashamed that I haven't climbed in such a place in my homeland Catalonia. So some DWS and sports routes are in order. That will be at the back or the front end of another tufa trip, either Kalymnos or Turkey, I haven't decided yet. Just today I added a new destination to the list, Yanshuo China! Anyone psyched for it? Then I gotta go back to Bishop, and Rocklands, of course! July will be spend in Lleida, helping friends with their new home, bolting routes and hopefully climbing if the heat allows. And how will all that fit with my ice climbing? Oh man, I need a project manager!!!! Ah! I forgot, I'd love to climb my first 8a this year... haha, hilarious. I love the feeling of having a ton of options, keeps me afloat. Bring it on!

One thing is for sure, climbing is an amazing world to be part of. For different reasons, climbing creates very strong communities, and I never really realized how important that is until I needed one to fall onto. Suddenly all this climbing buddies come out to help you and give a hand. I feel so lucky to have found climbing in my life, as it has provide me with some amazing friends and it has been my door to the world. So thank you all for the humbling experience!

Now... let's CRANK!

First DWS in Portland

2011-04-11T21:55:00.000+01:00

We took advantage of the Spanish-like temps and hit the south coast of Dorset. Portland was the ideal venue because some of us were keen on Deep Water Soloing and some others wanted just sport climbing. I, one that always gets spanked in Portland, was keen for DWS as it an memorable adventure without having to crank hard. I found it quite hard to come to terms of soloing above freezing water, but as some of the keenest members or the crew, the water temp was just fine. I struggled up a 6b that was hardly 6 or 7mts high and it felt like I was sending a 7 something, but loved the experience. I can't wait to get down to Mallorca this Autumn with DWS madness-crew!

Adam crankin'!

Gnaaaaarl!

Luvley Dorset

A rare sight of Michal on ropes (usually a boulder pad is underneath)

Helena crushing as usual

Michael showing-off the good looks

Adam making a 5 look like a 8a

Buoys will be buoys

We had a papparazzi

Tom Le Crusher above high tide

He bottomed out when he fell in

Adam "Mr. Alway Psyched!!!!!!!"

"... and then I crimped a barnacle, gaston a limpet...."

You gotta watch this!

2011-04-08T22:12:00.002+01:00

This is a tribute film to the all-time jedi master of ice climbing, Guy Lacelle. The film shows that we don't value people for how hard they climb, but for what a awesome human beings they were. I never met the guy, but he is an inspiration. Get inspired!

http://www.vimeo.com/21070053

Good times in Devon

2011-03-28T23:44:00.001+01:00

This past weekend was my friend Matt's 40th birthday. A dear friend had organized a surprise weekend in Dartmoor with plenty of booze, climbing and cakes. I never been to South Devon, but boy what a surprise. First is that is not that far from London, and second, the climbing is amazing, in an amazing setting. We went to Torbryan quarry which absolutely brilliant, with excellent flowstone rock and some quality routes despite being a small venue. I managed to flash a 7a+ called "Barney Rubbles" and a bunch of 6's. There's a 6c there that's got to be the best sport 6c in the UK bar none. I had one go at a 7b and almost got the crux on flash. I would have got it next time, but we had to go to the pub to start the party. The saturday day night was a good fun drinking session and set myself for an easy sunday. Sunday we went to Hound Tor for some social bouldering. I did fuck all and everything seemed hard but I'm sit at bouldering anyways so who cares. I loved the place and the weather was amazing, but more amazing was the company! Thanks guys

Tricky in Torbryan quarry

Helena cranking on a 7b

Amira also cranking. The girls showed the way this weekend. Amira impressed all of us the day after by soloing an E2 5c in Hound Tor. I tried after her and had to downclimb. She's a crusher!

Good combination

Font tool kit

This guy knew what he was doing and it looked as cool as climbing, but on wheels

Ella back on rock after maternity

Beautiful Hound Tor

Helena crimping on air

Mister crush-everything Tom Le Fanu

Some problems are pretty high. We had one sprained ankle that required an A&E visit

Alpkit matt are the business, ready for world domination

Birthday boy holding a rather ambitious ticklist of Font problems

Paaaaarty!

Fridays, Sunny weekends and BMC Insurance

2011-03-25T11:22:00.000Z

Arrgh, I'm so hangover I can't do any work, so I'm write something to pass the morning. A couple more hours and I'm out for the usual Friday lunch, with the help of a few beers normally turns the afternoon into bike talk or any other banter. Then it's off to Dartmoor! We are heading out to celebrate Matt's 40th birthday for a bit of climbing a loads of partying. Weather looks stunning so I think we are in for a winner. I'm hoping to get a taste of Dartmoor bouldering and really would like to make it down to Antsey's Cove for some of the best sport climbing in this country. But let's see what the damage will be, might be able to crawl out my sleeping bag if I'm lucky. Either way, it don't matter, it's great to be getting away from London. Last night I went to the Blue King Brown gig at Cargo, it was awesome to be dancing to such a positive energy music, it picked me up from a rather rubbish week and made it for me.

On the flip side, I've been dealing with my insurance claim for my little accident in Switzerland. I've always relied in BMC insurance, they always come up trumps and I never mind paying the extra as they were always good. But that has changed folks. They've changed their underwriters and they outsource they claims to some mega-claim-buster company in Ireland. So after claiming medical bills from Switzerland, smashed helmet and other damaged gear, what did I get? A £10 cheque. 10 flippin' bloddy pounds!! They take off excess, and ignore the gear damage, despite having a convincing medical report saying I landed on my head and knocked myself unconscious (you don't need a university degree to figure out that the helmet that saved my life probably needs replacing...). So I paid £110 for the insurance cover, and all I get is £10, I would have been better off without insurance. But it not all lost, I have complained to BMC, sent and angry email last night, and I got a response first thing this morning. They said that my feedback was very valuable as they just changed their underwriters and that the will look into it. So hopefully they consider to go back to their old set up, which was brilliant. So please, if you had a similar experience as me, do write to them with your feedback, let's not loose the only insurance that good for us climbers.

Right chaps, get out there and enjoy the sun! Winter is over

London Tooling Series

2011-03-20T22:39:00.005Z

Last night as I stumbled into my flat at 2am, worse for wear I must admit, I certainly hadn't decided whether I was going to go to the Drytooling comp at the Swiss Cottage climbing wall. I set my alarm anyways just in case I wasn't too hangover. The alarm went off and tried to shake off the hangover with coffee, and decided it be cool to have a go at the comp, at least I'd feel I didn't waste the day. After the bike ride I felt much better, and another coffee of course, and then had a look at the routes for the competition. I met the guys running it, Kevin and Col, and they gave the me lowdown. I was really impressed at the hight of the main wall, it must be almost 20mts, from the outside it looks very deceptive and just for beginners, but once inside it's proper wall. Just to put into perspective, you better of doing routes here than at the Castle. Suddenly I got really psyched for the comp! I met the rest of competitors, it was just six of us, which was great because I got to know them all and it was a very relaxed and friendly atmosphere.

The boulder problem (Photo Richard Enticknap www.fantasmastudio.co.uk)

The competition consisted in a circuit of 8 routes that you had to do with no time limit. The most technical route was a boulder problem that with a very tricky steinpull to the finishing hold. I was tied up with a few competitors, specially Charlie Evans showed good skills, but on the boulder problem is where I got my points. I flashed all the routes except the one with car tyres, as I never used them, and most of the other guys had done the previous comps where they used the tyres. I actually find this the hardest as it was just awkward. So I won just with a couple of extra points, I could as easily come second or third really.

I'm really happy I made the effort to go. I met some really cool people trying to get the drytooling off the ground in London, and the Swiss Cottage wall is an ideal venue. High routes, steep, it gets cold in winter (is open to the elements) so it doesn't get used by rock-climbers and it's a central location. And, there also self-belay machines so you can just lap routes. If we had such a venue to train for the World Cup we would have done much better results, I'm convinced! So London Drytoolers, let's get behind this and try to get down to the Swiss Cottage wall next autumn when they set the routes for next season. The comp routes will be up for another month if you fancy having a go.

The finals route (Photo Richard Enticknap www.fantasmastudio.co.uk)

Rufus on the finals route (Photo Richard Enticknap www.fantasmastudio.co.uk)

They were all pretty big holds and no hard moves really, very friendly for beginners (Photo Richard Enticknap www.fantasmastudio.co.uk)

One route was on the self-belay machine (Photo Richard Enticknap www.fantasmastudio.co.uk)

(Photo Richard Enticknap www.fantasmastudio.co.uk)

Big thumbs up to the organizers and guys on the ground running the show. Also to Richard for taking the pictures. Thanks!

Word from the Master

2011-03-18T12:14:00.003Z

Since I'm back sitting in a desk, I have more time to trawl the web to keep my motivation up and read about what other people get up to. Motivation is a hard thing to keep up and fed, and it all goes tied-up with a whole other things in your life. A little spike of stimulus came this week in the shape of two good sessions at the climbing wall, seems things are picking up a bit. For some odd reason, my power is still very good, close to top form. I flashed two V5's back to back, and revers all the moves to the ground. But then I can't do an 18mts 6c.

Anyways, since it's Friday, I'll put up a Friday post. This one is about Raphael Slawinski, the Master of mixed climbing in the Rockies. I have a ton of admiration for the guy, for his ethics and his ascents, which are always nails. I found this article in his blog about Drytooling, it's a very good and insightful article on the history of Drytooling and why we got where we are with it. It's important for us, well, for me at least, to be reminded why the hell I'm hanging on axes in a sunny summer's day in the middle of the climbing mecca that is North Wales. The answer is simple: It's just a means to an end. And reading Raph's blog put it into perspective. It's funny also his take on figure-of-four technique. He's been doing this for yonks, and back in the days when they were climbing in big boots and crampons is when they invented it (or borrowed, not sure) the technique to get passed very steep section with poor footholds. Then the spurs came along and they stopped the using the technique. Then people stopped using the spurs and the technique is back on. Except in France where the DTS boys refuse to do "yaniros", as the called them, as they consider them poor style. So there you have it, front to back, back to front. Read Raph's post here:

http://raphaelslawinski.blogspot.com/2011/02/off-couch.html

And I've taken the license to re-post some his technique tips, as I thought it was very good. I hope you don't mind Raph. Here it goes:

Drytlooing technique By Raphael Slawinski

• Relax on the tools. I am always surprised to find I can hang on to tools much longer than friends who can climb circles around me on rock (I mean the kind you use slippers and a chalkbag for). Since they are obviously far stronger than me, I can only conclude that I must be using my limited strength much more sparingly than they are. In particular, I almost never squeeze a tool handle. On the contrary, I try to maintain as light a grip as I can get away with, often opening up my hand - kind of like open-handing as opposed to crimping on a hold. As a result I get less pumped while climbing, and recover better while shaking out.

• When climbing, move it. It is common to see people 'gerbiling' on mixed routes, their brains racing like a gerbil on its wheel, but not going anywhere. Eventually they pump out and fall off. As as soon as my pick hits a good hold, I relax on the tool and move on. Rather than looking for a placement for the other tool, I shoulder it and simply match on the tool that already is on a good placement. (Having said that, I match far less on traditional mixed routes, where committing to a single tool and having it pop could bruise more than one's ego.) On really steep routes, where I hang far below the tools, I often hook the upper grip of the placed tool with the pick of the other one, so I can use both arms to pull up to the next hold.

• Use body tension. Unlike in rock climbing where one can feel oneself spooging off a hold, in drytooling there is often no warning before a tool skates off. An especially common scenario is to have the bottom tool pop off just as the top one hits a hold. The problem is lack of body tension. After falling off unexpectedly once or twice, I remember to keep the direction of pull the same as I move past a placement, and to involve the whole body in moving around a suspect placement to keep it still - kind of like locking off on a sloper.

• Control swings. On big horizontal reaches, where an uncontrolled body swing often causes cause the tool to walk off the hold, I try to control the swing as much as possible by keeping a foot on. But, where a swing is unavoidable, I minimize it by lowering out into a cross-iron position before shrugging the trailing tool off.

• Rock climb. Rock climbing fitness helps with drytooling fitness, but much less so the other way around. I find I can go from pulling on plastic to drytooling at a reasonable (?) standard, but if all I had been doing is hanging off tool handles, the first time out sport climbing is a humbling experience.

Alpkit Karma

2011-03-16T14:53:00.001Z

Some people are still getting up frozen things at the moment. Not for me though. The only frozen thing is my brain. So with not much to report I thought I write a few lines about our keen supporter, Alpkit, just because I like them.

Most of you already know Alpkit, they've been around for a while with a winning formula to produce gear. Uncomplicated, realiable and affordable kit. This year Rob and I got sponsored by them and got to try some of their gear out in the mountains of Switzerland. I know all sponsored climbers say their sponsor's gear is always amazing (Grivel athletes, bless their heart...), so I'll try and stay away from the cliche.

Alpkit is a populist brand with a great spirit, bringing the gear to the masses, and establishing the priorities, which are saving you the money so you can spend it climbing. Good Karma, it always comes back to you. It makes you wonder sometimes why is all the other gear so expensive. Anyways, what they're doing is great, a bit like the Ikea of the outdoors (I'll be sacked tomorrow when they read this...) and I'm proud to represent a small British company run by cool young bunch of friends.

In Saas Fee during the World Cup comp, I catched an elevator going down to isolation room. This guy got in after me, and he was wearing a blue Alpkit Filo down jacket, the first one I'd seen in the continent. He immediatly spotted my bright yellow Filo jacket, and instantly said how cool these Alpkit jackets were, that they were incredibly cheap for the average down jacket in Switzerland and were as warm and did the job just fine. There you have it, the Ikea thing I was telling you about. A lot of people asked us about the brand as some never heard about it. When we told them that the bouldering mats were going at £60, they got the message. My Filo down jacket did the job just as well as the Rab jacket I had before which is more than twice the price, maybe it's a 100grs heavier, but at the same time it's sturdier and more durable, it doesn't rip as easily as the Pertex. The outer as a water repellency treatment that I wasn't aware of, and I found out by chance standing under some showery ice daggers. I don't know how long it will last, but it seemed to work.

Other stuff we tried was the Airlock dry sack. I've using drysacks for a few seasons now, that's where I carry my spare gloves to keep them dry. My glove system is a bit too much, I see that, but I suffer from cold hands easily and the only way to manage it is to bring enough gloves to keep my hands dry and warm for the whole route. I always lead with drytooling gloves like the BD Torques, and then belay and second with thicker gloves like the Cloudveil Ice Floe, which I normally carry two pairs. Until now I used the Sea to Summit dry bags, but they are not very durable and they are expensive. The Alpkit ones are half the price and the Cordura seem stronger or thicker because it doesn't get punctured by ice-screws as easily as the Sea to Summit. I also ripped the roll-closure in the Sea to Summit when packed in tight with stuff.

The Airlok keeping my gloves dry in the showers of "In der Kurze..." Wi6, Kiental.

Another piece of kit that we use but not as much was the Airlok Xtra. I used it to carry my comp boots to keep them dry, as comp boots have very sharp crampon points bolted on, something sturdy was needed, like the TUP fabric this bag uses. But the cool thing we found out was a different use for this little sack. We needed a super-lightweight backpack to keep a belay jacket dry during one of our new trad routes during heavy snowfall. So we picked up the Airlok and larksfoot at sling through one of the loops, clip it with a plastic biner to the already in place strap and you get a super-lightweigth makeshift backpack.

And last but not least, there's the t-shirts and Figfour hoodies, which I love cos they are cool with great colours, but I assume that is just me as I'm such a design sucker. My job after all...

The dirty secret of Masson Lees

2011-03-14T00:02:00.000Z

Being back in London has been hard work. It's been over two weeks since I've been back from Kandersteg and I'm still feeling worn-out from the ice season. Motivation has been running low and I'm just been taking it easy trying to recover and get my strength back, finding your feet again after a long trip can be difficult. Going down the climbing wall has been very uninspiring to say the least, baby skin and no finger strength making me feel like a numpty. But I had the weekend free and no-one was about for some rock-climbing so good old Matt came up trumps when he said he was up for some drytooling. All the DT kit was ready to be pack deep and far away until next autumn, but for a lack of a better option I thought let's get back on it. The added bonus was that Matt was going to introduce me to a drytooling crag that him and his mate Rich have been developing. They've kept the whole thing a bit quiet because the crag is in prime Peak District and it's in a quarry with existing rock routes. Now, before anyone gets jumpy about this, Matt being a cautious guy he is, has talked to Gary Gibson who's bolted the majority of rock routes and they both agreed the back of the cave was too choosy, muddy, wet and featureless for any rock-climbing to happen.

Well so not expecting much since I haven't heard much about the place, my surprise was when a saw this massive mega steep cave. Surely that wasn't it? Really? Flippin' heck Matt, you kept that quiet. Anyways, there isn't a lot of routes at the moment, but you can get strong in there. There's a nice little warm-up route on the right hand side that goes at around M6 and it serves also as a great introduction to our silly game of drytooling. It seems that it would be good also for running laps up and down and building stamina for winter routes in Scotland or abroad. The real deal the is a route called Sub Rosa that goes at around M10 to the first belay station. There's a futuristic extension bolted, maybe called Muy Sub Rosa (TBC) but good luck on whoever gets on that, upside-down climbing for most of the 20something meters. Anyways, I tick Sub Rosa on my second go and it felt about as hard or harder than Tomahawk I did a couple weeks back. The first impressions are a bit mixed as the starting holds are on wooden blocks which is a bit wierd and unusual, but sod it, it's great fun and who cares anyways, it just for training purposes and there wasn't gonna be any rock routes there in a million years even if Ondra grows suction cups on his hands.

We topped the weekend to another visit to White Goods. The place is looking a lot better after the clean up and clear up by enforced by the fire brigade. It almost starting to look like a normal climbing crag. We went there to have a crack a new route that Rob and Matt bolted recently called White Goods. I had a go and it felt way harder then the given grade of M8+, but it's a great little route. Matt had a go and ripped some loose holds on the roof crack. So I went up and cleared a whole lot of loose rock and licked teh moves again to make sure it goes. It does go in the current state and I think the clean up has made it better and safer route. So happy climbing chaps!

The impressive cave at the back of Masson Lees quarry. DO NOT drytool on any established rock routes!

Tom making his way up the warm-up route (no name so far) that goes at around M6

Matt making approaching the first crux, getting over the lip, in Sub Rosa M10.

Tom on the first moves of the warm-up route

Steep! Bring the big guns! A great fun route

Over & Out

2011-02-24T17:16:00.000Z

Our time in Kandersteg has come to and end, today was our last day climbing. We woke up to heavy snowfall and I was happy to just stay in the hostel and short shit out like the ton of packing in the back of the Landy. Rob was feeling the same, so after sleeping in, I met Tom and Jim over for breakfast. Tom mentioned he fancied doing "Blue Magic", a classic 150mts Wi5+ that I never got around doing, I always kept it as a fall-back option. So a quick run upstairs, pack my bag and a brisk walk, we were at the bottom of the route by 11am. The conditions weren't nice, snowing heavily and another party on top, so loads of spindrift coming down, so I was wet before I even started. But we climbed really quick and efficiently and soon catch up the climbers above us. I really enjoyed the no-stress climbing and just cruising ice, I do love the stuff! Before we knew it we were at the top, quick shake of hands and a grin on our faces. What a great way to finish the trip. Jim Ballard, Tom's dad, was in the valley taking pictures like a true soldier.

So that's it folks. Back to London town to work on monday and should do for another 3 months or so. Then after that we'll see, maybe some more adventures? I happy to settle down for bit, I feel exhausted now.

Happy climbing chaps!

Leading the tricky pitch of Blue Magic Wi5+ (Photo Jim Ballard)

Tomahawk M10+

2011-02-23T21:18:00.001Z

You've gotta love climbing. And you gotta love Switzerland. Climbing takes you so stunning places that otherwise you wouldn't know or even bother. Some local climbers find tucked away places to climb, and eventually they make it into a guidebook, and then you, get to check it out and sometimes you feel like a very, very lucky tourist. Today I had that feeling, I felt privileged to be a climber and discovered an amazing little corner of Switzerland called Isenfluh. We went there to check out this tiny mixed crag called Little Vail (or Sulwald) that we've been meaning to visit for a long time, after hearing god thing about from Tom Ballard. The place is tucked away in the valley next to Grindelwald, so you get amazing views of the North Face of the Eiger from pretty much anywhere. Also lucky is that next to Eiger you have some impressive mountains like Jungfrau, and that we were blessed with gorgeous alpine sunshine.

Essential kit

The little cable car in Isenfluh

Switzerland at its best

Nice views? North face of Eiger and Jungfrau

Little Vail crag

The Eiger

We got to the minute and quintessentially Swiss village of Isenfluh where the road finishes. Then we catch a really cool old-school lift to get us to the top. The thing was operated by an old man smoking a pipe, what else, and we had to operate the doors ourselves to get out at the top station. The views from the top where the best I've seen in a long, long time. Then we strapped the skis on and in a total state of bliss start skiing down in the search of this "Little Vail". We soon found it, and it looked pretty good in the sun despite only having 10 routes. After a quick inspection of what was on offer, I decided since we only had two days for the trip, might as well try the hardest route, an M10+. Tomahawk the route you know about because is on the covers of guidebooks and back in the days it was one of the first routes at that grade by the pioneer Robert Jasper.

Tomahawk M10+

I got on it not expecting much, as I've been feeling drained of energy the last few days, I think it's just accumulative exhaustion of going at it for so long now. The beers last night didn't help either, Rob deciding that we should have a pint before bed in the Gemmi Bar as we never seen it open. Anyways, the climbing was good but I wasn't sure about some of the hooks, they seemed a bit to marginal and maybe loose. But as good as always, Rob shouted "just yank on it!", and indeed I made my mind that I just had to trust the placements and go for it. I dropped a tool so I worked the moves with just one tool. When I got to the curtain, it was obvious it needed a lot of cleaning and big stuff was gonna come down. So I lowered off, move the stuff about and climbed back up the column of ice to the curtain to break some hanging daggers of ice. Then I went to the sunny side, warm up and re-tape my hands (I still have a gashed finger), psyche up and went for the redpoint. I decided I was gonna go for it, no fucking about, either fall-off or top-out. It went more smoothly than I expected, trusting the placements and fig-fouring a couple of times. I got to a good rest and Rob shouted to try and get on the ice as soon as possible, and I turned around and the ice was closer than I expected. Then suddenly I felt good, really good, I was going to do this if I just keep it together and don't blow it. I made the next move to a 3mm deep hook, which to had to keep pulling down as otherwise it would rip, and then somehow lay one on for the ice. It stuck, I swung around, clip the higher bolt and de-pump for a long time before finishing up the ice. Very pleased with the day, thanks Switzerland.

Winding down

2011-02-21T21:24:00.000Z

Things are winding down in our last week of the trip. Both, the psyche and the body are suffering (and in my case, also my finger). So we are just finding stuff to keep ourselves busy and get the last few climbs in before the 15hr journey back home in the Landy.

We had to go back up to our new trad route in Oeschinensee to retrieve our gear, mostly expensive Camalots and Helium quickdraws. It wasn't pleasant, I can say that, and I think Rob will agree. It was snowing very wet snow, and the climbing felt harder than the first time. Rob suggested that we aid the top pitch I fell off and then aid back down, and sounded like a good idea. For some reason I thought he was going to do that, but then at the belay I quickly realised that he wasn't racking the rack on his harness, and then I asked the obvious question, yes, it was my turn. He hand me over the fifi hook and I replied I never used one, as indeed I've never aided before, but most daunting was aiding down. What followed was a very steep learning curve, and in some dark way I actually enjoy it despite being frightened to the bone. Somehow I got back to the belay with all the gear back and got the fuck out of that place. On the way down was still dumping it down with snow, but got treated to some nice esoteric views.

The walk down in the tasteful dimming light

Today, after refusing to wake up when the alarm when off, carried on sleeping until I gathered enough will to go down for breakfast. Then we got the visit from Tom and Jim Ballard at the Gemmi Lodge and decided to team up for a trip to Kiental. I tried to onsight "Sennenlutsschi", and M7+/8 that Tom has recently added to the crag, but the lack of traffic and excess dirt and mud took away my onsight bid. By the time I got to the anchors I found the route a bit too loose and unappealing to to the redpoint. Tom was keen to do a Wi6 pillar left of "Kei Fraua.." that is not in the guidebook in case it was a first ascent so I teamed up with him. A lovely two pitch climb, Tom got the crux and we found some ice screw placements so it wasn't a first ascent but great climbing nonetheless. Next I jumped on "Naturtrueb" Wi6- as I looked at this route a million times but never actually bothered climbing it. I run the whole route in one pitch as we had a 70mts skinny sports rope so it was great to flowing up easy ice, very pleasant. So all in all, a great day cragging, no stress.

The pillar in the middle of the picture is not in the new guidebook

Tom Ballard leading some ice above Naturtreb

Tom Ballard on the spicy Wi6 crux of the line left on "Kei Frau.." (no name as yet)

Try hard & Fail hard...

2011-02-19T12:03:00.002Z

…not exactly what I was thinking when sitting in the doctor's room in Kandersteg after having fallen the 20mts, knocking myself unconscious and gashing my hand. I suppose we always known there's a price to pay for pushing the boat out, and up until now I always got away with the prize and unscathed. This time was to be different when we choose to go and "have a look" to one of our new trad lines instead of some bolted mixed cragging. I'm not quite used at this trad new routing business as I don't do any Scottish or Welsh winter climbing, and neither much rock trad for that matter, but what I know is that you have to get used to the "unknown" factor and keep pushing through until something works out and you get to the top with your prize. Well, it wasn't meant to be this time.

Rob had lead the first 60m pitch, which albeit easy-ish climbing, it was very loose and hard to protect, and even seconding it was sketchy. Arriving arrived at the ledge system it was now time to choose a line. The one we had in mind suddenly looked horrendously hard and probably would need bolts, so we choose a more obvious hanging flake that looked like would take gear and take us to a shallow groove up above, hoping the crack system would carry on. At the belay, I wasn't psyched, I felt tired and not ready for the hard work, but somehow convinced myself to have a look since we were there already. I left the belay and start traversing and gained some incredibly loose terrain. Getting pass that was scary, mainly because I had to keep the ropes clear from the massive blocks I was pulling making sure I was going down with them. I finally got to the flake and was glad to see it was as solid and as good as it looked from below. I started climbing it with a mixed of torques, crimps and laybacking with bare hands. It got to a point where the flake was horizontal and no good for tools and poor footholds. I must have spend one hour there trying to unlock the move. At the end, the only thing I could do was to take one crampon off, layback, smear on the rock high and rock over and reach for the top of the flake before barn-dooring. After couple of attempts I managed and was glad to find a good hold on top of the flake to shake out. But now the problem was that I had no crampon in one boot and no way to put it on. I kept pushing on nonetheless, partly encouraged by the seemingly good gear. The higher I got, the more I was missing my crampon in my right foot. I got to the crux, two bad torques for my picks, bad footholds and the last two pieces of gear were a shitty C3 and a half bagged in peg. At that point I attempted stupidly to put my crampon on, probably the worst time, and indeed it proved impossible. So I sucked it all and went for the move.

Trad styleee

Rob on the sketchy first 60m pitch

Next thing I remember is flying in mid-air for a long time, head first. And then, strangely, Rob is next to me clipping me into the belay. My crampon was miraculously back on my boot, and I was asking Rob where were we, and there was a trail of blood back to the belay. Apparently my placement I went for was some frozen grass that ripped and came off backwards. Some of the gear ripped-off and I fell the entire pitch landing on a snowy ledge at level with the belay as the ropes went tight. Rob did a sterling job getting me safely off the mountain despite me being severely spaced out. He got me to the local doctor in Kandersteg for a check up and after a few tests that looked more like to test if I was drunk, I got sent back home under Rob's supervision. I was clearly instructed by the doctor not to have Foundue (?), and guess what we were having for dinner? He also said not to play chess or heavy reading (?). This doctor has seen a fair deal of action and I believe he knew what he was talking about. We all agreed I had a very lucky scape, and that I'm probably not very good at placing trad gear. At least for being my first ever trad fall, it was a decent one.

Today, after visiting the doc again and getting the all clear (no dancing with flashing lights or neither chess…), we went up to Ueschenen to give the Danish/French team that are staying with us some company. It was their last day so it was power-screaming all-round trying to send projects. We got animated and Rob tried to retro-flash Twin Towers, M10+ at the current state, and I onsighted Klara Winter M8+, after taping heavily my deep cut in the finger. It was great news I could climb even with the damaged hand as I did write-off next week, our last week of the trip and the season for me.

Well, the first task is to go and retrieve all the gear we left behind. That alone will be and epic on its own.

More adventure accounts on Rob's blog

Head in Gear

2011-02-16T15:02:00.006Z

It feels that finally I've got my head in gear to do stuff, despite not at the level I expected due to many factors. Still, I'm having loads of fun despite the hard work and feeling exhausted most of the time. It's fair to say that I'm not a natural for early starts and long walk-ins, but there's no getting away from it if you want to do certain routes. In the last few days things have picked up and I'm happy with the pitches we leading, even though some of the routes I thought we could do have proven too hard for me. It's never a bad thing finding your limit, if you don't fail means you are not trying hard enough. And certainly that's how I felt when I was teetering my way across on a free-hanging icicles facing badly protected M9 moves on-sight on "The Flying Circus". I promised myself we ought to check it out, despite not being able to on-sight bolted M9+'s from the ground, maybe being "trad" it's a bit easier. But I just thought it was too scary and a bit dangerous, or maybe lack of commitment, but I didn't feel like risking a fall. The way "Flying Circus" go is basically making your way across a massive roof via linking icicles and the rock in between. The protection is a mix of rusty pegs, some that and whatever you found for your own pro. I was on the second icicle from the back of the cave hanging from the roof, and I was faced with a wild move where I had to lay back from my placement on top of the icicle and reach back on to a small but positive steinpull, twist around and launch for the roof hoping there was some bomber placements. Next bit of pro was some tat past the roof, meaning if I didn't stick the moves I was going to swing right into the bottom of the icicles and they normally tend to snap when hit sideways. So I chicken out and backed off. It now sounds like a long winded excuse to myself, which probably is (haha), but that was how I felt.

These are the icicles you have to link to get to the hanging curtain, via two pitches, M9 and M10

I'm the tiny orange dot at the top of the pillar (Photo Adam Nelhams)

Getting scared (Photo Adam Nelhams)

Adrian Nelhams leading the Saule Wi6+ pillar. The ice curtain is the Flying Circus one

With a bit of a bruised ego, we tried to save the day by getting up to Ueschenen where out Danish/French friends where working the way around the crag. Really psyched to get some "Grrrrr Factor" going, I jumped on Pink Panther, a M9+/10- masterpiece which I tried once before on the first day of the trip. I decided I was gonna give my everything, "a muerte", because otherwise it would just be pathetic and at least I wanted to feel I was trying my best. It all started smoothly but soon my arms run-out of juice and the battle began. I made my way to the last bolt before the ice and seriously pumped the embarrassing power-screaming started. I placed my tools in a crack higher up than I need it to swing into the ice, but my tools ripped and I was flying. Rude swearing followed, but I was pleased with myself, I went for it and did was I set up to do. I knew I was going to send it next time, and that's what happen the next day. Went up to the crag, but geared up and jump on the route, and some fighting later I was at the chains. Now I could just relax and take some pictures of the other chaps climbing.

This explains the loud swearing

There was a good ambience in the crag, Rob trying a testpiece called "Tooltime" M10+, Kristoffer Szilas trying his "Powerbat" M9+/10 and the youth Tom Balland working the hardest route in the crag "Vertical Limit" M12. I basically spend the rest of the day taking pictures of everyone, and the best was witnessing Tom's send of Vertical Limit from an advantage point, problem was I wanted to watch, not take pictures. Tom and his dad, Jim Ballard, are the real deal, they are travelling around the alps just doing hard mixed. They live in a Transporter and don't seem to be faced by the freezing cold temperatures. Now they were camping up in Ueschenen, a steep 2-hour walk, with everything, camping gear, climbing gear, food, drill, bolts…. They have all my respect for sure! A very special story, inspiring! The kid is sending everything, bolting a bunch of routes in every crag, and I didn't even heard his name back in the UK, definitely a raising star.

Kris Szilas on his successful redpoint of Powerbat M9+/10-

Kris Szilas on sketchy hooks

Father and son, The Ballards going strong

Tom not hanging about

Tom fighting his way to success on Vertical Limit M12...

... and savouring it.

The Ballards home

Jim Ballard holding the ropes

Rob taking some pro pics

Now was time to take the recent success and take it to the a big route. It's hard to find what route to do. Last time we where up in Breitwangflue we spotted a mixed connection to the Wi6+ "Alpha Saule". It seem to good and obvious to be omitted in the new guidebook, but obviously, around here sometime there' gems of new routes right in your face for the picking, so we thought worth going up and have a go. With a light-ish trad rack packed, we set the alarms for 5am. A bit of 4x4 tricky driving and painful walking in the dark after, we were there at the bottom of the route. It looked good! It's an awesome wall, as good as anything I've seem, wild ice and steep rock. In tree long pitches (60mts each) we got to the bottom of the crux pitch, a crack that leads to some funky ice, then an unprotectable free-standing pillar to reach the back of the main curtain. It went at M5/M6 on good trad gear onto Wi6 ice, and it was great fun to lead, happy days! After getting behing the curtain we still had to climb the last hard pitch which is getting on the Wi6 curtain to get to easier ground, but by then the weather closed in and started snowing. Since we had partially driven the Landy up the sketchy logging trail, we worried that the snow would make it hard to the car back down. After having a chat, I carried on and lead the ice and when I got to the easy ramp, I turned around and it was a total white-out and snowing heavily. Obviously we wanted to do the 3 or so more pitches of ice to get to the top, but there was no option really if we wanted to get out. So after some rather unpleasant abseils we got to the bottom, happy for the good climbing and slightly disappointed for not topping out, but hey, whatever, there's always reasons for being unhappy. I chose to be happy this time!

The "Alpha Saule" mixed line is the furthest right

Rob starting the first 60m pitch

Breitwangflue wall, mixed terrain at its best!

Topo to our high point. We climbed about 4 and half pitches, leaving about 3 and half pitches left to do. You can say it was easy ground above, but when you are tired and it's dark, even Wi3 can take it out of you.

The crux pitch starts in the trad crack that leads to the hanging 3D ice daggers. It was great fun to lead!

Check out Rob's blog for more adventure reading and pictures

Cold showers

2011-02-12T15:54:00.001Z

The temperatures here in Kandersteg are raising by the day. I mean, it's lovely weather, bright and warm sunshine, but it's not ideal when you are actually trying to climb frozen waterfalls. The last few days we've been, unwillingly, getting quite a few cold showers because of that. Most of the routes are dripping with water so we get soaked through or at least with gloves dripping with water and very cold hands.

A couple of days ago we went down to Blausee, which is the adjacent town to Kandersteg, to scope out some icefalls I've seen a few times from the train but that aren't in the guidebook. We had some visiting friends looking for some ice routes, so we weren't bothered that there wasn't any mixed lines, and anyhow, all the mixed lines we see seem to be lacking ice. So after driving the Landy up and down this logging trail, and some exploring, we settle for this cliff that seem to offer at least two cool steep lines and other easier stuff. I psyched myself up to lead a single pitch column that was a chandeliered horrow-show dripping with water, but it looked like you could bridged across and therefore seemed do-able. I went up behind the column with not much problem but then when I stepped across to the face it was like going under a power shower with clothes on. It wasn't long before even my boots where filled with rather cold water. I carried on, as there's wasn't much else I could do with the poor screws I had placed, and thought to myself I'll be able to get in the groove of the pillar and bridge across and the climbing would get easier. I looked into the groove to look where to swing my axes just to realise that it was in fact two in dependent columns, so I just had to keep going on until easier ground. All in all, I got more than what I bargain for, I don't even know the name of the route. It has been done before for sure, because there was abseil tat from the trees and it is a 5min walk from the car. But since it's not in the guidebook and I don't know whether it's got a name, I will call it "Wet Dreams" and I found it in Wi6 conditions.

Pete and Tommy walking out of the Blausee area, not in the guidebook

Yesterday we visited Kiental again, and it seems the ice has been forming for the last few weeks, but it also really wet as well. Tommy and Scott went for their Wi6- project and we were looking around trying to find something good to do. The mixed lines had a lot of ice missing and Rob suggested to do "In Der Kurze die Wurze", an amenable Wi6 that we did two years ago, but now it looked much more full-value as it had formed not quite as fat and solid, and it was sort of melting away. We climb it as a three and had good fun despite the cold wet hands and longer belays, and it was great to be moving fast on ice and feel confident.

Rob leading the first pitch of "In Kurze..." at Kiental

Hahaha, it not what it looks like. Pete is belaying, not Rob (Photo Scott Swaling)

Leading the tricky second pitch (Photo Scott Swaling)

Rob leading the crux. The pillar was semi-detached, but Rob found a bolt to protect it, how lucky is that?

Pete having fun seconding

Happy times!!! I love the stuff, can't get enough

Check Rob's blog for more fun times

Breitwangflue visit

2011-02-05T13:43:00.000Z

We've been up to the Breitwangflue to check things out and figure out the new approach since the tunnel has been built. I've never been up there before, always trying to elude the massive walk-in and finding something else to do. But this time we bite the bullet and get up there, and jeez it's hard work, it makes the whole outing an epic day, specially for those with no endurance like me. There's not much snow at the moment so I suppose we have to consider ourselves lucky, we even tried to drive up with the landy, but a slab of ice literally turned the car for us downhill.

We had our eyes on this route called "Tranen der Princessklettern", or something like that, being one of the easiest routes there going at M6+ (on pegs) and some more pitches of easy ice up to Wi5+. We got to the bottom of the route pretty late, and not wanting an epic decided on a cut-off time of 5pm. I got up the first pitch which I found hard for a M6+. I don't know what's up with me but I found the routes to be easier when they are steep bolted M8/9 than easy off-vertical routes, maybe it's my footwork that sucks. Anyhow, I got to the top of first pitch which was the very top of an ice column, but unfortunately I went off-route. Rob got up to the belay and start traversing to get back on to the original line, via a VERY loose ledge system, all very alpine. I got the belay and went on to have a look at what was next, but standing right underneath Mach 3, I could see that the ice connection the upper and lower ice fields was missing, so the route couldn't be finished. I downclimbed and we bailed off the route. Before leaving the cliff I went to have a look at very esoteric route called Metro, which climbs literally inside the guts of the mountain in darkness, very cool and spooky. Need to find someone willing to climb it with me!

Rob approaching the top of the column

Me starting on the traverse pitch (Photo Rob Gibson)

The impressive left hand side of Breitwangflue. What we climbed is the tiny (by proportion) rock pitch leading to the ice smear bottom left of the picture

Rob having a closer look at the start of Mach 3

Crack Baby seems in condition

Great views from up there

New trad route in Oeschinensee, Kandersteg

2011-02-02T13:17:00.001Z

On monday we went up to have another look at the unclimbed line we spotted after our retreat from "Buch Dich". The good thing about the line is that it looked that it would go all trad and it linked to a very nice looking ice drip high above in the cliff. What caught Rob's eye at first sight was an appealing crack system that would take you to a ledge, and then it looked like some easier climbing would take you up to the ice. We went up the first time to have a look, but the first meters we tried didn't go, and then we tried another start that look promising, but the fading light made us finish that day.

This time with more decisiveness and a full day in front of us, we got to the bottom of the line and yes indeed it looked great. You could see this immaculate crack high above that had to be climbed, and best of all it would go with no bolts, an unusual thing here in Kandersteg, and of course, onsight and ground up. The first pitch took the longest to sent as we were figuring out the climbing as we went, as it turns out the crack had to be rock-climbed with hands and doing some laybacking and a bit of hand jamming. That first pitch was absolute quality and totally 3-stars climbing. Then one pitch of easier but still very fun terrain got you to the base of the ice fall. One more pitch up some very brittle unclimbed ice got me to the top. The whole thing took us about 8hrs climbing and we finished in the dark, but with great satisfaction. We reckon it goes around M6, Wi5, or Scottish VII. Let's hope for a second ascent!

Rob investigating the groove on the first pitch. The rock was really compact and most holds face the wrong way, but since it isn't that steep you can spend a lot of time looking for the right ones.

The crack above Rob is what caught out eye, it turns out it was awesome to climb. From the grassy blobs, I took my gloves off and lead with my hands. Getting around the bulge I used the undercut crack, but there was nothing for my feet really to a point I considered to undo my crampons. Luckily, I spotted a slot for my axe so I unclipped it and jam it in, that probably saved me from taking a wipper as I was a bit desperate by then.

The second pitch has some easy mixed up a crack and then joins the ice. I reckon on fatter years, you can probably use the ice all the way to the third pitch pillar. The ice next to Rob was in very poor state.

A wider view of the Oechinensee crag, by Kandersteg town. You can see the top of "Buch Dich", is the very slim tongue of ice at the top of the cliff before it drops down.

We didn't have a particularly early start, but the climbing still took 8hrs.

This is a provisional topo. The line is situated between the Blue Magic / Buch Dich area and the Mehr Power and Barettrit area, it's easy to spot from the sledge trail.

Looking up & mixing it up

2011-01-31T20:36:00.000Z

It took a while to recover from the 3 pitch lead "Rise and Shine", and not being able to finish the route left a sour after-taste. Trying to find what to do next, that's good, in condition and that we haven't done before is quite tricky. We racked our brains and I suggested to have a look at "Buch Dich", M7+ Wi6ish and 150mts. Being a Marcus Stofer route we knew it was gonna be no walk in the park, and in fact Rob has been on it before but didn't take trad gear and had to come down. It looked very thin and the ice was dark, indicating possible delimitation from the rock, but we went up nonetheless. Rob sent the first pitch of ice, which in fact was delaminated and made it quiet sketchy and not very well protected. Once at the belay, I set off for the first mixed pitch and soon I was faced with a leaning crack-line with very sketchy holds. I didn't feel confident looking at the ice pick I have on one of my Nomics bending too much as I torqued in the crack with all my body weight. Nevermind, I swapped tool and used the one with the mixed pick and move up. I did a few moves but then I realised that the ice I was going for was way too thin and unconsolidated. That mixed with with burning forearms, I accepted failure once again. Not to waste the rest of day, we had an exploratory afternoon and found some interesting and exciting things which we'll be reporting soon.

Rob on the first pitch of "Buch Dich"

Anyways, not letting the little "project management" mishap get in the way of motivation, today we chose something we knew was in condition and fitted the bill. A mixed line, aesthetic and on gear, called "Reise ins Reich" which is the mixed line connecting to the famous Wi6 free-standing "Reise Integral" pillar, a total of 175mts. It's not that hard, at M6+ and the ice at the top somewhere in the easy Wi6, but the rock section was total choss and exposed. Rob demonstrated is getting back on form by pulling a scary lead on the mixed section and had my troubles seconding it! The ice at the top was super fun and it was a great feeling ticking the route "within comfort zone", specially on a route that I always wanted to do. This year "Reise Integral" is not formed, so the only way up to the cool ice above is via this mixed route, I love it that mixed climbing opens up so many more options.

Coming down we spend another while looking for my Nomic that went walkabout and some angle peg that we lost. We found other stuff, but nothing that we were looking for. I will keep looking, but I think that's a goner. We looked also at the other mixed lines, one put up by Ueli Steck, another by Robert Jasper and then the "Maikel doesn't like flowers" again. I could really figure out were the lines go as the guidebook is actually quite crap once you start digging in. So I don't think we'll be trying this lines anytime soon.

"Reise ins Reich" is the line furthest left linking some ice into the cave to belay. Then traverse right onto Reise Integral and belay behing the free-standing pillar. We finished up the parallel ramp up right

Gasterntal has a huge amounts of ice lines, not in the guidebook. This is on the right hand side of Black Nova.

We drove the Landy all the way to Gasterntal to check it out

Rob about to enter the chossy M6+ section on "Reise ins Reich"

Exposure! You can see the pick placements the way we came up

Rob abseiling Reise Integral dagger

It's so nice to be that close to so many lines. The approach from our front door is about 30min

First Impression in Kandersteg

2011-01-27T16:11:00.000Z

It's proving a slow start with the climbing here at Kandersteg. To start with the conditions are not brilliant, but there's stuff about to do. When we got here we were feeling a bit battered from competing and partying in Saas Fee. The day we drove to Kandersteg we drove up Kiental to check out the conditions as we heard there were bad. And indeed a lot of the routes we wanted to do weren't in conditions. You could see they had been fat but had fallen down during the January warm spell when they reached up to 15 degrees celsius. As it was late in the day we decided to do something short and easy, we chose "Vibrator" which is a short section of M6 on to a curtain of ice graded Wi6. I went up first but not feeling the love I came down, same happen to Rob. I suppose partying the night before until the early hours of the morning didn't help. Next was our fellow world cup competitor Marc Berverly from USA, who dispatched the route with ease despite only having had barely 2 hours sleep. Mind you, he already was warm up as he had to climb up the outside the hotel to get to his room. Next go Rob and I sent he route and went home to our newly rented basement apartment in Kandersteg.

Our home for the next month (well, the basement..)

The short easy M6 section (Photo Rob Gibson)

Getting behing the ice curtain (Photo Rob Gibson)

And jumping on it, great climbing (Photo Rob Gibson)

Marc Berverly demo of using Ergos on ice

The day after we decide to get some mileage on easy ice and went up to "Blue Magic" which a classic 180mts of beautiful Wi5+, but another team was on the route so we decided to for "Baretritt" which although half the length packs some good Wi5+ climbing and it's a really nice line. It felt nice to be cruising up ice and enjoyed the easy day very much.

Baretritt Wi5+, an excellent line and awesome climbing

Ignore the ugly guy, in the background you can see the unformed "Merr Power.." line, which is a shame that there isn't a mixed line joining the free-hanging column. Not that we could do it now.

Rob finishing off the job in Baretritt

But obviously we can't help ourselves to be thinking of mixed lines. We don't feel ready for the bigger routes we were thing so we choose some other easy accessible mixed lines. There a bunch in Oeschinenwald which looked good and they are a convenient 30min walk from our front door. I planned for the 100mts "Maikel held niet van Bloemen" M7+, but somehow ended up in "Rise and Shine" which is also around M7+ but longer, 175mts, as it has an extra pitch at the top. The conditions are very thin so there was no ice to start, so it was fun to start the pitch banging in pitons and some thin moves to gain a line of bolts. Some hard work later I made to the belay and realised thanks to Rob that I was probably in the wrong route, but this looked so good that I didn't care. Rob was coming down with a flu so I lead the next pitch as well. It started with a long wide crack which had to be climbed with a combination of jamming your axe deep inside the crack on chockstone and laybacking with your hand, great fun but exhausting. After a roof section I reached to a hanging dagger of ice, to get up the dagger was really hard work as it was proper overhanging and I had not goo feet and I could feel my forearms giving up. Somehow I managed to get up it but the skin of my teeth and made it to next belay. I got there and could see that the next pitch was short but overhanging and few free-standing pillars and some curtains of ice. After the initial confusion I saw the line, climbing up a pillar bridging against another pillar, reach up and gain and overhanging wide crack. The pillar had a crack at the top, but it was short, about 5mts, so as long as I didn't put any pro it would be fine. I managed to put a stubby screw on top of the other pillar and then I saw some bolt on the roof which was a great relief, but I was getting insanely pumped by now. Rob suggested I downclimb and have a breather before going for it, so I did that. After recouping, I went up again a lot more decisive, reached for the crack, pulled up with really bad feet, jammed my axe high up in the crack and tried to pull up. Next thing I know I was flying in mid air, thank god for the bolts. My axe also decided to take flight all the way down the 175mts, so that was a goner. I came down again, have a rest and try again using one of Rob's Fusions, but by then I was so fucked that I just couldn't pull up. I bailed. So frustrating, one move move and I could mantel up on frozen grass and it was over, but I had nothing left in the tank. The only way was down.

We abseiled, set up a belay and looked for my lost Nomic, but it was hopeless and I was so hungry, thirsty, weak and basically broken that I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new tool and get the hell out of there. Luckily enough, back at the apartment, the dutch team for the world cup has been hanging around and Dennis Van Hoek sold me his spare Nomic real cheap so I'm fixed now for more funny adventures. Now is time for a well earned rest day? Maybe not, but we are resting for sure, my body feels broken today.

The line of "Rise and Shine" M7+ Wi6ish. Before this you have to climb a pitch of ice and then traverse right to bottom of the route. Then it's 3 pitches of fun climbing

This is the pillar of the 3rd pitch, at the very top you can about see the crack that fracture it from the source. I climbed up it and then bridge across the other pillar, once you got the tools at the back of both pillar you were safe, but then the hard climbing started. Soon after me and my nomic were flying...

Rob seconding the second pitch, We found some frozen turf, which I reckon made it very Scottish...

New updated list of routes in Ueschenen

Rob keeping warm with the Alpkit jacket

The best part of our short trip to Ueschenen was he ski descent, which I actually really enjoyed.

Ice World Cup - Saas Fee 2011

2011-01-22T18:28:00.002Z

Ice climbing competitions are a funny thing, a whole lot of people get together to test against each other, but they all do it for different reasons. What caught my attention last time I watched the Saas Fee world cup was the good camaraderie and great vibe amongst the climbers. Competing in the 2011 event together with Rob Gibson has been a great experience. In doing so I realised what makes this competition different to all the other types of sports competitions, I realised that what makes climbers a different crowd, what makes us alike and connect together, was very much alive in Saas Fee as well. The genuine respect and support was what will stay the longest with me out of this experience. I suppose it's slightly different for the contenders that aspire to be the winners, I reckon they have a bit more pressure and have less time to make new friends and socialise. But there's a whole lot of really strong climbers from around the world that make the competing together really satisfying, even if you don't make through qualifiers, most of them are there to have a good go and put their hard-earned skills into practise.

I was pretty nervous going into the isolation zone. Rob, having done quite few comps already, knew the drill and looked composed, and anyways, he didn't have much time in isolation as he was number 4 and came out quite soon. I was number 47 so I had to wait for a few hours. Talking to others competitors kept my mind distracted so the nerves didn't build up. I did a bit of warming up with Rob and later on I teamed up with french climber Etienne Grillot for the routines. All the competitors have different habits or do different stuff in the isolation zone. Some read, like Dennis from the dutch team, or some even have a bit of a sleep, like current world champ Markus Bendler. Obviously I paired up with Manu Cordova and Javi Bueno of the Spanish team for a bit of Spanish banter, they were really supportive and very generous giving tips for me to do well.

Of course the best part of the competition is that you get to climb and awesome route. I've seen the routes in previous years and the structure were they built it doesn't change much. But walking up to it when is your turn to climb doesn't disappoint. I tried to climb well and to not make mistakes, I took my time to climb as I knew I was going to get pumped out of my brain before my time run out. The routes are set with holds made out of real granite, they customised them every time so no competitor has previously seen or touched one of this holds before. So it's pretty hard to work out how to use them and that's how you spend most of your energy and then you have to make some powerful moves. Rob and I had different routes for the qualifiers, so we couldn't share the beta when we previewed the route. Etienne and I work through the holds and making a mental notes of the possible moves, although until you are actually climbing it it's impossible to know what you will be doing.

I walked up to the belayer and tied in. Looked at the route and decided I was going to enjoy the climbing, because that is what it's all about. I climbed up the ice pillar, jumped on the horizontal ice-block and bam, first hold. Steinpull on a slippery granite hold never feel secure, but you just have to pull on it and hope it doesn't pop. Soon I got in the flow of it and didn't find the climbing too hard, but the moves are strenuous and kicking your front points on the plywood all the time is pretty tiring. I made it up the first panel and then across another panel. Here things started to get tough, I could feel my harms blasted with lactic acid. Rob and the rest of the friends were shouting encouragement and that helped a lot, but once I got onto the ice barrel my arms couldn't hold anymore. I tried a few figure-of-fours to de-pump, but I was off soon after. That was it, it was over. I had no idea how I did performed, but I enjoy it. Later on, they guys told me I did pretty well, so I was happy with that.

Once the qualifiers were over, we walked up to the scores. As expected, neither of us made it through, but weren't the last at least. Rob was 20th on his group and I was 15th. Only the top 9 of each group qualify to the next round, the semi-finals. That night we went to what I called the "losers party", which takes place in a really cool make-shift club right next to the routes. We had a lot of fun watching the whole lot Russians and ex-Soviet Union countries competitors doing the speed climbing competition. The speed climbing discipline consist in running up a vertical 20mts pillar of ice as fast a you can on a top-rope. Most of us don't really get it, but it's tons of fun to watch. The fastest was something like 10 seconds, which is actually a quite amazing achievement.

Our final ranking of the competition was the 41st place for Rob and 29th for me, out of 63 competitors. Not bad considering it was my first competition and Rob was is recovering from a broken ankle that is still hurting and didn't allow any training. So we are pleased with the outcome after all. We are now in Kandersteg trying to get some proper climbing done. The competition has taken its toll, in terms of energy and time, and we hope to get things up and running soon.

Team GB arrives in Saas Fee, parked next to the Dutch team

Rob warming up

Marc Beverly, the sole representative from USA. He got disqualified in a confusing misunderstanding, a shame really

Dennis from the Dutch team and Juergen from Austrian, great company in isolation

Manu and Javi, also great and really strong chaps

Sharpening madness in isolation zone, keeps the doctor away...

Juergen is a really strong Austrian climber. All Austrian team has to compete for Rumania, including the current multiple world champ Markus Bendler. Austria doesn't recognise Ice Climbing competition. If you thought the situation in UK was bad, think twice...

Etienne's bag. Non-apologetic statement of why French are really strong

Ukrainian competitor working a steinpull and clipping off it. Clips are count more points than holds, so you want to clip sooner rather than later.

Javi Bueno of the Spanish team on the qualifiers route

Manu Cordova on the semi-finals. The Spanish team performed really well.

Markus Bendler on the last hanging panel. The route is freaking long, 25 clips, what you can see in this pic is about half the route

Markus Bendler on his way to victory, despite he didn't top out

I thought that hold I'm going for was a Steinpull, but I wasted a lot of energy finding out it was not. Photo Rob Gibson

My tool ripped twice of that Stein I'm going for, it totally screw my mind. I finally got it to work and move off it but I was pumped out of my brain by then. Photo Rob Gibson

The day after the comp I wanted to climb the mixed routes in the car park, which used to be the World Cup routes. I teamed up with keen frenchman Etienne Grillot and climbed two awesome routes whilst watching the semi-finals from the big screens.

Brand New 2011

2011-01-09T12:02:00.002Z

Christmas break is well over now. The time off it's always a bit of both, a bless and a curse, because you can chill out with family but at the same time once you back you gotta start all over again. We've done the usual commute to Finland for xmas and then Spain for new years, with a couple of days in UK which gave me the chance of a bit of training, all in all, over two weeks. It's nice to check back in with family and wondering if you'd be happier in another country, but it's also nice to see that is good back at home here in UK. This year I had to give a pass to explore new ice lines in the Turku area in Finland because didn't have enough space in my luggage for ice gear for two, it had been taken over by boxes of presents. But anyways, we left before the panic set in about me keeping up with my training. Pretty much the same happen in Spain.

Very wintery winter in Peak District

Very warm winter in Spain

Very christmas winter in Finland

A few new things for 2011. Rob and I are now officially part of the Alpkit team. Alpkit is a really cool outdoor company based in the UK. I've been using their gear for a while, specially the FigFours, so I was chuffed when they accepted to support us for our winter adventures. The FigFours have been pivotal to my training for the season, so I'll be reporting back my learnings on the tools and how to maximise them. Check their website alpkit.com for more adventures coming up.

Another positive development for this year is the opening of the new wall at the Westway climbing centre. I know it's a bit boring mentioning this, but the new structure is totally awesome, super steep, longer and more technical routes. We'll get fit on that thing! I climbed on it this week and it really got me psyched. Its got to be the best wall for routes after Ratho, and I can't wait to get stuck in. In addition, there's a new bouldering wall which has doubled the already existing bouldering area. It's good to see that they put all those entry fees to good use, a very good job indeed.

New Westway wall. Steeeep!

More developments for 2011 is that I'm working with personal trainer Sol Fernandez (solfernandez.com), who is helping me getting fit for climbing and trying to break my habits in training and challenge my routines, and since Sol's a good friend, he understands what I'm after and can tailor programmes for me. We'll be trying different things, I'm keen to experiment with weight training and make an emphasis in diet and nutrition, a field that Sol knows really well. This might become a bigger part of my training if the project of getting a new house becomes a reality.

Not been able to get away for ice or drytooling has meant that more visits to the chalk have been paid. I've mixed it up, very wet and unpleasant days leading loads of routes back to back, dodging rough seas in high tide, night climbing without head torches, night climbing WITH head torches (so much better…) and trying to leave the cliffs with nothing left in my arms. A few more session down there and it's show time!

Gearing up for a night session in the chalk cliffs of Saltdean

Rob testing his broken ankle

Just what the Doc recommended

Winter Wonderland

2010-12-21T10:09:00.004Z

Winter has arrived early in Britain this year, and with a vengeance. A lot of people have been able to get out and get early season ticks in the bag and for us southerners stuck at work, lets's just say we are a tad jealous. Thankfully, Rob himself has been at work in North Wales gearing up for the season, and bagged the third ascent of "Cracking Up" IX 9, Wales hardest route. All this action has got my head going with ideas for winter. I'm always eager to plan up the action of the forthcoming trip, I suppose I have too much time in my hands, or I just simply can't get winter climbing out of my head. Out of all the climbing disciplines, this is the one that obsesses me the most. Sometimes all this motivation can a bit of red herring, creating a lot of anticipation for then to be disappointed when you don't get what you had planned.

This season is a big one for me. I'll be joining Rob for his annual attendance to the Ice Climbing World Cup. He's been doing most of the competitions for the last 3 years with some good results, considering the limited resource of this type of climbing in our country. At the beginning I wasn't particularly interested, but then since I watched the comp in Saas Fee 2 years ago, I have been playing with the idea of entering it. It's taken a while to figure out how to do it, as me being a Spanish ex-pat made the whole thing slightly more complicated. Thankfully, the UIAA are a flexible bunch, and since UK has been my home for many years, I'll be able to join Rob in the contingent representing Britain. Rob is quite experienced at this by now, and he knows what to expect. Me, on the other hand, I have no idea what to expect, and I think is a good idea not to expect much. Even if I manage to do all my homework and get fit enough, there are many factors that come into play that can hinder any performance. One thing is for sure, we'll give our best shot.

Markus Bendler on his way to victory

The big daddy of the ice climbing competitions is Saas Fee in Switzerland. Built in the spiral shaft of a multi-storey parking lot, is an artificial structure with hanging blocks of ice and very steep sections of dry tooling. There is a reason why the structure looks the way it does, it has evolved through the years to keep up with the ever-stronger climbers. So climbing in such a monster of a wall is something I told myself I had to do at least once in my life. There's also a very honest camaraderie between competitors and the events are a great way to network with some of the world's best climbers and getting beta for future projects. After seeing all this first hand, I now understand what kept Rob, and lot of other people, going back for more.

Kiental in all its glory. Myself on "Cabron" M8

After Saas Fee we'll be taking Rob's fully-packed Land-Rover to Kandersteg, which will be our home for a month. We've been there before, and we felt in love with it. There's a huge concentration of challenging climbing and some of the hardest mixed multi-pitch in Europe. Last time we were there we sort of discovered this mixed crag called Kiental that most visiting climbers don't know about. We had some very succesful days out in Kiental, but we also have some unfinished business there in the form of burly single pitch lines. The legendary Markus Stofer has been hard at work in the last couple of years putting up new multi-pitch lines that we are keen to try. They are always quality lines, and the man has a taste for mixed climbing that we share. Last time we hooked up with him, he selflessly point me out to an impressive unclimbed free-standing pillar next a new mixed line he and Rob were trying called Kraftort. I couldn't believe my eyes I was about to bag the first ascent of that beauty. I called it Kraftwerk. From that same spot we were able to set our eyes on another of Markus routes, "Nine Inch Nails". This beast of a thing goes at Wi6+ with quite a few pitches of M8 and M9 thrown in and some sections of overhanging funky ice that they named "space funghi" in the guidebook. We wish we'd be strong and confident enough to give it a shot... but sometimes you have to careful what you wish for!

The fearsome "Nine-Inch-Nails"

But, the jewel of the crown in Kandersteg is the Breitwangflue, a massive 1000ft-high wall packed with what is probably the best mixed lines in Europe. It's the magnet that attracts the likes of Ines Papert and Will Gadd to the area, and we are keen to get stuck in. God knows what our chances of success are, but we won't know until we try. There are three lines in particular that have captured our attention because they just look awesome. The first one and more obvious is the classic "Crack Baby", 340mts of epic pure ice climbing with five pitches of Wi6, which is a test of endurance more than anything. Quite a step up from that is "Mach 3", another Stofer route, with some wild M9 moves on rock to gain a hanging Wi6 curtain of ice will definitely require to have very smooth dry tooling skills. And top of the realm is "The Flying Circus", an infamous route that packs in M7, M9 and M10 pitches using a variety of ice smears and hanging icicles in between. The real game changer here is that there's no bolts apart from the belays, so the protection is a mix of trad gear and pitons, making it a route that hasn't seen many repeats, specially from British teams. All in all, this wall is the motherload of hard climbing that needs a lot of preparation and a good dose of psyching up, together with good skiing skills as well because you have to skin up for two hours in the dark before you even get your tools out.

Anticipation can be the best ingredient for frustration, but at the same time is the best generator of motivation for getting through all these months of grey autumn days. At the moment there's a bit of uncertainty in the air, as I just a got a text from Rob last night saying that he has "break on his ankle" and needs to put his feet up for a while. We'll see how all that goes, let's hope for a speedy recovery. Life is always a bit of a gamble, an climbing is no exception...

And anyways, is the journey what counts. Now I just have to take my Figfours out and do my homework!

Myself on the first ascent of "Kraftwerk" Wi6-

Rob on his successful second redpoint of "Kraftort" M10/11