The last two weeks here in Rodellar have been about the one thing and one thing only, my first 8a route. I didn't choose the most suitable route for my strengths, but I did choose one the would certainly challenge me. And indeed it did! Ciro and I have been working slowly through the 32mts of climbing in "Gracias Fina", and it's taken a lot of effort to unlock some of its climbing. People say it's a soft touch 8a, but to me it felt super hard, like loads harder than any other 7c+'s I've done. I don't know what 8a is suppose to feel like, the but the step from 7c+ to 8a a LOT bigger than, say, 7c to 7c+. Truth to be told, I have never project anything for more than a few days, and after a few goes I would know whether I can send it. I have never really done an "all-in gamble", where you put all your chips on one route. So far I feel like I lost the bet. It didn't help that I felt worn out of 6 weeks of camping life and not getting enough rest. I can't remember the last day I woke up feeling fresh. I will go out climbing for another few days and totally empty the tank, and then have 10 days rest before Kalymnos. I hope Ciro's theory of "overcompensation" works out well!
So this would be the end of my first round to get an 8a before 2012. Second round will be in Kalymnos next month, and I think I'll be doing things differently. One thing will be getting more rest days, rather than 2 days on 1 day off, which doesn't quite work for me as I accumulate fatigue through the days. It will be a clash with Andre, who is a beast and will go all out for as long as he can, as I come to realize in Ceuse. I'm not quite that fit!
Now to do some more climbing, but the pressure is off for a few days...
Cristiano working a very crimpy "Estrella Fugaz" 7b+
The calm before the storm. Will getting ready for a battle on "The Kings of Metal" 7c+
Tim Hill on his redpoint attempt of "Tragaldabas" 7c+
We've been getting a lot of this...
... and a lot of this too
Strong USA climber, Ben, on some gnarly 8c in Ventanas
Stu on his last attempt on Kings of Metal
The "ice water" treatment. Spot the Spaniard...
Little magic box, Sony WX1, wide angle. Awesomeness in your pocket.
The "Ventanas de Mascun" (The windows of the river Mascun), meaning the arches
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